Archive for Dryers
Your dryer vent pipe should be made of aluminum. The white vinyl duct that was common several years ago no longer meets most building codes, because if your dryer ignites it, a fire may start in your home.
Check the entire length of the vent pipe for lint build-up at least once a year–or more often if the dryer gets a lot of use.
Note… Remove the lint from the duct–don’t just push it back into the dryer or let it clog any part of the vent.
Interior of dryer cabinet
The lint produced by clothes tumbling in a dryer is normally trapped by the lint filter. However, some lint invariably escapes and accumulates on the inside of the dryer cabinet. At least once a year, check the inside of the cabinet, and clean it if necessary. Do this more frequently if the dryer is used heavily.
Check and clean the lint filter after every drying cycle. If the lint filter has any rips or tears, replace it. If the filter gets clogged by fabric softener residue or any other residue, you can easily clean it with a soft-bristle brush and a little detergent.
Area under lint filter
You can also clean the chute, duct, or area that the lint filter fits into. If necessary, use a vacuum cleaner to reach into the duct and clean out any lint.
Note… If the lint build-up is severe, it’s important to disassemble the dryer and clean out the lint more thoroughly. This is often a job for a qualified appliance repair technician, because there’s a risk of injuring yourself or damaging the machine.
Having a Multimeter is a must for appliance repair for testing voltage to appliances and appliance parts, continuity/ohms on thermal fuses, thermostats, thermistors, heating elements. The list goes on and on.
Volts AC 750 , Volts DC 1000, Amps AC 10, Resistance max. (Ohms) 2M, Continuity, Temperature -4 °F to 2498° F, Display (Counts) 2,000, Operating Temperature 32° F to 74° F (0°C to 23°C), Fuse Protection mA: 0.2A/ 250V, Power 9 V Battery (included), Size 5.5″L x 3″W x 1.5″. Temp probe included.
We seem to be having lots of members coming to our dryer forum and are having their dryer motor starting to fail, after about 8 years dryer motors can simply just wear out under normal use. The sign of a dryer motor going out is when you start the dryer it makes a grinding sound and runs a little while then just stops completely.
Here’s the most common dryer motor for the Sears Kenmore/Whirlpool models with the lint filter on top of the dryer:
Manufacturer part number 279827 is RepairClinic item number 2584
Dryer venting restrictions and clogs are very problematic for proper dryer performance. If you notice your dryer taking longer than normal or if you have to run two or more drying cycles just to get your clothes dry, I advice people to check their dryer vents first before anything else.
If you find your dryer exhaust flexible hose/ducting is torn or kinked, its best to replace it.
Maytag Dryer(model#LDE4000ACL): The dryer is running but not heating at all. Unplugged the dryer and did a continuity test on the heating element with my ohm meter, it showed no continuity. Installed new heating element, worked great!
Here is the heating element assembly for this model:
Manufacturer’s Number: 307178
Frigidaire Dryer(Model#FDE648GHS0): Loud squeaking noise on every load. Found the front felt pads and rear bearing worn out.
There is a great Dryer Preventive Maintenance Kit available for these models and the Sears Kenmore dryers that start with model#417.
Dryer preventative maintenance kit 1992 – 2001
Manufacturer part number 5304461262 is RepairClinic item number 1261075
Dryer preventative maintenance kit 2002 and up
Manufacturer part number 5304457724 is RepairClinic item number 1198622