My ten-year-old Amana washer model LW9203W2 (PLW9203W2B) stopped in the middle of a load with a full tub. The washer will not spin or agitate. The washer fills fine. The pump is motor-driven so obviously it will not drain either.

This is has an electronic control module with self-diagnostics. When running diagnostics everything works except the motor doesn't run.

My hope was a defective lid switch (combined with out-of-balance detection on this model). Unfortunately the switch works fine. Next hope was an open thermal protector on the motor. No dice.

The circuit diagram was inside the control panel. With my multimeter I was able to determine that the relays controlling the motor (hi/lo, spin/agitate) never energize. The relays controlling the fill valve work fine.

I constructed a set of patch cords to bypass the control module and directly energize the motor. The motor started right up. So I was able to drain the tub.

Does this mean the control module needs to be replaced? Unfortunately that is a $300 part since it is a sandwich of two circuit cards plus the soft-touch buttons and LED display. If the boards weren't sandwiched I could probably fix the problem but I can't even see between them very well with a dental mirror.

Item 822995 Electronic control kit, almond
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral...=1265&N=822995

Three questions:

(1) Could anything else be wrong that is causing this problem?

(2) Is there any way to fix the control module cheaper than $300?

(3) Is it advisable to spend $300 on a 10-year-old washer? I like the features (stainless tub, etc.) and it washed fine. And it matches the dryer. But I could get a pretty good few-year-old washer on craigslist for that price or less.

Yes, it does sound like that control board is out.

I would say its not advisable to put $300 in a 10 yr. old machine.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Thanks for the response. In my zeal to save money I have been searching for a cheap control board. The only difference between these two parts appears to be the color. But the cost difference is huge. What gives? Would the white one work in my washer (model number in first message)?

Manufacturer part number R9900571 - $302.15
Item 822995 Electronic control kit, almond
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral...=1265&N=822995

Manufacturer part number R9900570
Item 780669 Electronic control kit, white - $186.45
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral...=1265&N=822995

I don't know how the links got busted. Here are the parts with good links.

Manufacturer part number R9900571 - $302.15
Item 822995 Electronic control kit, almond
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral...=1265&N=822995

Manufacturer part number R9900570
Item 780669 Electronic control kit, white - $186.45
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral...=1265&N=780669

I am back in business.

I got more aggressive since I had nothing to lose. I removed the control module, unbent the tabs that hold the circuit cards together and separated the cards. I noticed that the solder had melted away from one of the leads of a 9-pin connector. From my prior troubleshooting with the circuit diagram I knew this was a 120VAC line that eventually supplies the motor control relays.

I don't understand why they design the circuitry so 120VAC goes through the circuit card. That is a horrible design that recently caused a similar problem on my dryer.

I broke out my soldering iron and solder, and although my soldering skills are terrible, I finally made what appeared to be a good joint. Pics of the repair. Pic 005 shows the re-soldered connector lead - it is the one with the dark mark around it in the center of the pic.

http://s112.photobucket.com/albums/n...ith999/Washer/

I reconnected the control module to the washer. Ran the diagnostic routine. Everything worked great. Since I had the washer disassembled I spent an hour cleaning it inside and out. Then I reassembled, pushed back in the nook, and ran a small load of rags. The load just finished -worked fine. Keeping my fingers crossed.

If I paid myself by the hour I could have bought a new washer in this amount of time. But if I knew what I was doing it would have been fast.

Good job finding that problem and fixing it.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances