Our Amana, 23 cubic foot, side-by-side refrigerator (SXD23VW) started making a chirping sound when the compressor runs. This noise started about a week ago. We bought it in March 1999. We bought the extended 5 year warranty, which has now expired. We chose this particular model because it was one of the few models available that would fit through our 1950-sized kitchen door! Also, I had always wanted a side-by-side with and ice cube maker and water-in-door.

Even though it sounds sick, the fridge and freezer still get as cold as ever. We called a service tech to come and diagnose the noise and estimate the cost of a fix. He said it was the compressor making the noise. His diagnosis was that the compressor was dying and it was not worth replacing. He did not make any measurements of coolant pressure or coolant levels. He didn't even feel the temperature of the air coming out of the back of the fridge. He just went by the sound. This model uses R134a refridgerant. The tech estimated that a compressor replacement would cost $500. He said that a technician-installed compressor would only live half as long as a factory-installed compressor. He concluded that the system was not low on coolant because it was running noisier than normal. He said it it were low on coolant, where would be less pressure in the system and the compressor would actually run quieter. He advised against replacing the compressor and also said that all refrigerators were low quality now. We could not expect to have one last more than 10 years.

Just a week before the noise started, I had noted that the fridge was running more often than usual. When I pulled it out from the wall, I noted that the rear fan grill was plugged with pet hair. We have 2 cats and 2 dogs. I was a little surprised at the plugged fan because I have always made efforts to keep the evaporator coils free of pet hair. I usually vacuumed the reachable parts of the coils every 3 months. The fan area in the back was very warm, perhaps boarding on hot. I ran and got the vacuum and sucked all the pet hair out of the fan grill. I also vacuumed out as much pet hair as I could from the evaporator coils under the fridge. After that, air was able to flow again and the air temperature coming from the fan grill dropped to merely warm. I figured I just saved my fridge from dying a premature death. Within a week of cleaning it out, the noise started.

Also of note, the ice maker had stopped filling with water about 9 months ago. The water-in-door still functioned, however. After the ice stopped being produced, I noted that the water valve solenoid would still hum/buzz during the ice maker fill cycle. About 30 minutes later, the ice maker emptying fingers would push the non-existent ice cubes into the ice bucket and then activate the water valve solenoid again to start making more phantom ice cubes. My theory was that the water filter was plugged. So I changed it with a new one. This did not change anything. The water-in-door still flowed but there was no water going into the ice cube tray. Eventually, I just shut off the ice maker with the wire lever in the freezer.

To recap the action:
1. ice stopped being made 9 months ago
2. discovered and removed pet hair from fan grill 2 weeks ago
3. compressor started making noise 1 week ago

My main question:
Is it worth it to pay $500 and have the compressor replaced or should I give up and spend another $1200 on a new fridge that won't last more than 8 years?

Other Questions:
Is it true that a replacement compressor will not live as long as the original factory-installed compressor?
Does any company make a refrigerator that will last more than 10 years any more?

Eric

We called a service tech to come and diagnose the noise and estimate the cost of a fix. He said it was the compressor making the noise. His diagnosis was that the compressor was dying and it was not worth replacing. MAYBE He did not make any measurements of coolant pressure or coolant levels. This is normal since refrigerators have what is called a critical charge, and ANY loss of refrigerant results in lower cooling capacity, and since a sealed system doesn't have service ports and I am personally against leaving line taps on (they leak) I am glad that he didn't check the freon. He didn't even feel the temperature of the air coming out of the back of the fridge. he should have just for curiosities sake He just went by the sound. This model uses R134a refridgerant. The tech estimated that a compressor replacement would cost $500. low by my estimate, but ok He said that a technician-installed compressor would only live half as long as a factory-installed compressor. anytime a factory sealed system is accessed you run a greater risk of future problems, he's right but for the wrong reason.He concluded that the system was not low on coolant because it was running noisier than normal. I find that a low on charge condition is noiseir, but that all depends on what he listens for. He said if it were low on coolant, there would be less pressure in the system and the compressor would actually run quieter. wrong, if it's low on charge you get a vacuum on the suction side and i can personally hear it very loudly almost a cavitating noise. He advised against replacing the compressor and also said that all refrigerators were low quality now. unfortunatly it's called built in obsolesance, it's not that they aren't as good as they used to be, but the name of the game on a lot of these is energy efficiency, and the ones today use far less energy as they did 20 years ago and the manufacturers know that the ones in 10 years will use less than the ones today We could not expect to have one last more than 10 years. that's about right

as far as the noise goes, when it makes the noise and you have the back cover off (being mindful of the condenser fan motor) put you hand on the compressor and see it the noise changes (if you turn the fridge off and onn again to get the compressor to make the noise remember to leave the unit off for 10 minutes before turning it back on, this prevents shortcycling and that CAN kill the compressor), you also might take a look at where the condensate pan is and make sure it's not rubbing up against anything and making the noise you hear.

Now to the ice maker, replace the water valve, need more than that? ok,check thewater inlet tube to the ice maker, make sure it's not blocked up with ice, if it is you most have a water valve leaking though and the water freezes before it gets to the trough. or the water valve has failed altogether and not letting anywater through.

with as many animals as you have, cleaning the condenser coil twice a year would be a good idea, it can help maintain the health of your fridge.

good luck

It's been a month since I first reported the noisy state of my Amana fridge. It's still running and keeping everything very cold. The compressor sound is the same as before. To clarify a bit more, I do hear occasional swishing or cavitating sounds down in the compressor area when it runs. I believe this helps confirm the theory that it is low on R134a?

At this point, I'm planning to leave it alone until it can't keep food cold anymore. I've started looking at new fridges at appliance stores so that when the death comes, I have a replacement picked out.

Is it fair to say that the experts in the refridgeration industry say that refridgerators are now more efficient, but that they won't last 10 years any more? The implication I read is that the short life span is a result of the increased efficiency. That is a poor tradeoff. If a consumer has to buy a new fridge every 5-10 years, we are farther behind than we used to be. Even if you factor in some yearly monitary savings on electricity bills, we are generating large amounts of garbage when we throw away a huge appliance like a fridge! The air pollution we prevent as we save electricity is simply transformed into landfill and groundwater pollution.

the energy efficiency is made up in numbers, as time passes, the number of families setting up households grows almost exponentially, it is the sum total of all these refrigerators and the lesser draw they have on the power grid that is there real goal.

as for sitting in the landfill, not likely, even the newer samsung fridges(which are mostly plastic) have a fair amount of metal that junk collectors are constantly taking and dismanteling and selling for scrap, essentially recycling, the plastics are recyclable too but there is no money in it.

please factor that in your equation on the trade off.

aztraph, do you think it's acceptable that a modern refridgerator only lasts 5-8 years? You like paying out $1000 every 5-8 years?
Appliances such as refridgerators are referred to as durable goods, you know. I expect 10-20 years of life out of a "durable good."

You're going to have to present compelling evidence to convince me that energy efficiency necessatates a shorter appliance life. Compact flourescent light bulbs are an example that higher efficency can equal longer life.

Of course i don't think it's acceptable to replace a refridgerator 5-8 years after you purchase it, no one would. But when a fridge, or any other appliance, breaks down, it's always a question of how much it will cost to repair/replace it. break downs are never a good thing and unfortunately, appliances are not made as well as they were in the past(yeah it's cliche, i know). But plastics are not as durable as metal, but they are lighter and cost less to ship and manufacturer. it's a trade-off i know and if it's not one you agree with, then you look for a refrigerator with the qualities you desire, you may pay more, maybe less. But the rule of thumb is that when it breaks down if the cost of repair is more than half the cost of a replacement, your better off replacing, you may agree, you may not, that's your choice.

But there are a lot of factors in "built in obsolescense" that afflict most appliances today, it is your responsibility to investigate the options before you buy an appliance, if you make a hasty choise and spend 400 to 500 on a fridge, don't expect it to last more than 5-6 years.

good luck and remember, we're all in this together.

aztraph, your last message has a more objective and practical message. I appreciate that.
The 50% rule of thumb for repair is good to keep in mind.

The fridge is getting slightly noisier when it starts. I'm not sure how near the end is. It still continues to keep food frozen and drinks cold.

I'm really torn with what to do. I really like this fridge. The size is perfect and the features are just want I want/need. I bought a Whirlpool before the Amana and I could not even get it in the door so it had to be returned. I'm not sure if even a current Amana model will give me an even-up trade with size and features.
If there is a current Amana model that has the same size and features, would I be stupid to try another Amana?

Can you elaborate on the dowsides of replacing the compressor on the current fridge? If a slow R134a leak is causing the failure, will every inch of coolant tubing have to be replaced along with the compressor (I would think so).

Could the fridge failure have been caused by the overheating which was caused by the pet hair? If so, then perhaps the next fridge can be saved a premature death by cleaning out the pet hair even more often.

the pet hair does have a factor on the refrigeration system, if your fridge can't get rid of the heat, then pressures do get higher, but there are two possible outcomes:
1: higher pressures cause a leak and you loose some freon and performance suffers. this scenario is less likely due to the fact that your fridge has 5 maybe 6 ounces of r134a, ANY loss of freon causes the system not to cool properly, it's what we call a "critical charge."
2: the higher temperature caused either damage to the valves of the compressor or caused some of the oil to leave the compressor and travel the system, if the noise eventually stops, then it was oil, if it doesn't then there has been damage (or warping of the compressor valve) a new compressor would take care or it if it ever dies completely.

Now on the off chance that there is that there IS a leak, given that there is such a small amount of freon, the chance of FINDING the leak is remote.

If the compressor did finally give it up and you decided on replacing the compressor (if the fridge hasn't taken other damage that tips the scale of your judgement on the repair/replace question) there is only one downside. If the compressor suffered a "burnout" and not a mechanical failure like yours, repair is not adviseable since a burnout results in acids that contamonate the rest of the system. since yours is more likely a mechanical failure, go for it if you think it's worth it.

If I were in your position, what i would do is buy a new fridge and put the new one in and keep the old one in the garage or basement as a spare, that way if it does fail it's not the only one. and you don't loose anythin, then you can settle the repair/replace question a little more relaxed and not stressed out about HAVING to get a new fridge.

sorry my earlier posts weren't up to my normal clarity, I hope this helps, it's been a tough few weeks away from the forum.

Good luck and remember, we're all in this together.

Just an update. I've been waiting for the fridge's compressor to die. It is still running 9 months after the noisy nature started.

The latest malfunction seems like it may be a failed defrosting system? Now, every few days, the cold air in the freezer stops blowing and the items inside start to warm up. At the same time, the cooling fan at the back of the fridge runs continuously. If I unplug the fridge overnight, it will run and chill down again when I plug it in the next morning.

I continue to wonder if this fridge is worth spending any money on. Based on the fact that the compressor keeps running and chilling, I am leaning towards getting the ice maker system fixed and having the defroster system fixed.

So, it would seem that a noisy compressor doesn't mean its going to die any time soon.

Eric

It's been so long since you posted, I had to go back and reread the thread, And I found a new possibility that MAY explain 95% of the trouble you've been having (5% being the pet hair)

This is almost a revelation (if it's right) but you said you were having a problem with defrost, that sent a light on that explains it all to me. If you've had a defrost problem like a failing defrost thermostat (P#R0161088) which has been updated (by this i mean that the manufacturer has recommended a different part to replace it than the one it came with because there were problems that they don't want to admit too) , and it has been slowly failing and causing periodic problems like not completely defrosting, it would manifested itself by not cooling the freezer down to 0 degrees (which the ice maker requires to harvest the ice out since it has a little thermostat of its own), and if the frost builds up on the evaporator to much it can cause the compressor to pull into a vacuum and simulate a low on charge condition without there actually being one, it can even cavitate a little.

Now your thinking "great, so what do i do about it"

The bottom half of the back of the freezer section should be accessible be removing some screws, there will probably be some frost built up. Remove it and look at the coil behind it and you will see a lot of frost built up (so much that it blocks the air flow[this is why the cold never leaves the coil]). Defrost the coil and look for the defrost thermostat, it will be near the top of the coil (a small metal cup about 1" diameter and 1" tall, couple of wires coming out of the top and a blueish epoxy in the back [the epoxy is the key, it should be flush with the top of the cup but if water gets in and it freezes, it will eventually push the epoxy out, that's a sure sign of failure])

Look for this first, and post back if you find anything out

Good luck