Kenmore washer noisy in spin cycle

[kellyt]

Hello - I've read several threads regarding noisy front loaders on the spin cycle. I'm not up for trying to see if I can fix this problem myself (just fixed my dryer thanks to Jake-Hi Jake!). I'm afraid to continue using the washer in fear of damaging the machine even more. I'm going to call a Sears repair tech. I noticed there are longer warranties on some parts than others, hopefully whatever is broken is still warrantied. Do you feel most repair techs are honest? My biggest fear is that I will have to spend several hundred dollars to repair a washer (Kenmore 110.42822201) that's less than 2 years old.From other posts, sounds like it could be the bearings or broken 'spider arms'. What should I expect the techie to say? I'll reply to the post once the techie gives me his assesment. I'm up for any advice anyone would like to share ;). Thanks for your help, Kelly

[Mad Mac]

You have one of the Whirlpool-built "HE3" models. There haven't, as yet, been any reports of bearing issues with these. What kind of noise is it making, and where from?

[Jake]

Hi Kelly,

Mad Mac is correct, As a tech. i have very few of the HE3 models make noise in spin, the only noise i found in spin on these models, was something caught in the spin tub hole, like a nail, then i had one that had a loose motor shield, thats about it.:cool:

Now the water pump can become very noisy, i have changed many of these pumps, also i have cleaned out many, due to objects getting in the pump.

I would first check the water pump if this noise just started. Its easy to do, just remove the front bottom access panel, it has 3 hex screws on the very bottom. The panel pulls/snaps down, the off. The water pump is right in the front middle. Just unscrew the pump handle, put a couple old towels down to soak up what water comes out, it won't be much.

Jake

[kellyt]

It sounds like a knocking noise during the spin cycle-almost like the drum is out of alignment/off center.The drumdoesn't rotate evenly either, making me assume the drum is out of alignment. I can't locate exactly where the noise is coming from. The washer is 17 months old and out of warranty. Sears has recommended purchasing a 1yr warranty for $189 (not including tax) to get the problem fixed. I spent $900.00 on the washer. I'm fully disappointed with Kenmore's new products.:X

[Jake]

Try to turn the drum with your hand one way, then the other, and see if it makes noise.

Also try to do a drain and spin cycle with no clothes in it.

Jake

[kellyt]

O.k. - I did both.........by hand in both directions I hear the same noise as with an empty tub on drain/spin cycle. Technical noise sound :?...............dunk, dunk..dunk,dunk..dunk,dunk . Of course, the noise is quicker the faster the drum spins. It's hard to tell when the washer is empty if it's off balance. The noise could possibly be coming from the back left of the washer (looking at it from the front) but it's hard to tell.

Kel

[Jake]

Yea, The back left is where that motor shield is at, i had to tighten one on a service call i had, it was loose causing that kind of a sound.

But also check, with a flashlight, for something in the tub holes, like a nail, or wire thats skinny enough to get in those holes.

Rub your hand all over the tub as well.

Jake

[kellyt]

I pulled the front panel off and will check the water pump while I'm down there. I think I know where it's at from your description.Is the motor shield someone totally un-technical can tighten? I'll run my hands around the drum as well.

[kellyt]

Drum is clean, water pump had 2 pennies and 4 bb's-thanks for that advice! Ran the machine through drain/spin cycle and still makes noise. I also noticed the water coming from the pump was a little stinky-is that normal? Theclear tubeleading to the pump, I think the one that feeds the water, looks as though there is mold-build up in there. Is that normal? I noticed the cleaner you recommended on the home page. Is that something that could help clean the tubes? Lots of questons, sorry 'bout that.

[Jake]

You can only get to themotor shield from taking off the back panel, its abit of a job, While your checking the pump, you may be able to get your arm and hand back to feel the motor shield, to see if its loose from the front, but you can only tighten it from the back.

Just make sure you unplug your washer before going into it.:cool:

Jake

[Jake]

Yes, thats all normal stuff, build up, just get some of that cleaner thats on my home blog page, it will help clean out the build-up.

Jake

[kellyt]

Felt as far up in back left to feel for motorshield but couldn't find it. My arms may not be long enough. Do you recommend that I call a tech? What about that $200 insurance for a year? Do you feel this may be something that could damage my machine? I really appreciate you! Kelly

[Jake]

Well, the service call with labor to tighten the motor shield will be about $123-150, if thats all it is, the motor shield. If he or she finds the motor shield ok, then, you could have a more serious problem , that may cost you more than $150.

Its up to you, it really not a bad idea, say its your rear bearing shell assembly thats bad, that alone would cost well over $300 to fix.

That plan they offered covers up to $500 in repairs, if its over $500 you will have to pay the remainder, or opt out of the repair altogether, then they will give you a $500 credit for a new washer.

Good talking to you again Kelly, its 10:45 am here, i have to go out for awhile, i will be home later this afternoon.:cool:

Good Luck!

Jake

[kellyt]

Thanks for your advice Jake. Guess I'll spend the $200 on the insuranceto get it fixed :(. Hope you have a great day,Kel

[Jake]

Your welcome Kelly,

Sorry about all the washer and dryer problems you have had, its veryuncommon for the washer to go out just after the dryer. Wish i could give you better news.

Jake

[Dan O.]

Jake wrote:
it's very uncommon for the washer to go out just after the dryer.
Yeah, the other way around is more common when the dryer is subjected to added strain from a washer not operating properly.

Just another reason to get problems looked into in a timely fashion and not allow them to fester.

JMO

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com (http://www.appliance411.com/?ref411=Kenmore+Washer)
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[kellyt]

Hello, Just a short update. My washer had a loose bolt in the back causinga belt to have slack which led to the noise. The tech said it would've cost around $150 w/o my warranty which was $200 -but with the warrantyI can call forannualmaintenance and the washer is covered for an entire year. Thanks for the advice Jake! I'm just glad I'm up and running again. You guys have been wonderful. Thanks for all your help.:) As for the Washer and dryer having problems around the same time....there's a running joke with my friends "if it can happen (even under rare conditions), it'll happen to Kelly. That's just the way it goes. It keeps my faith strong anyway! Take care...kelly

[Jake]

Glad that was all it was, thats very rare for that bolt to be loose, never seen that happen before on that model, just the motor shield loose on the one i repaired awhile back, But glad you got it all working again, yes you do get a free check over once a year with that service contract.:cool:Thats a $90 value in itself.

Take Care Kelly,

Jake

[P38Pilot]

Just wanted to say thanks for all the info and advise..

I followed all the steps but my problem seemed to be different.:(

A little investigating and good ol' troubleshooting revealed that the flywheel (drivewheel?) had about a 1/16th of play.

Tightened it and the knocking went away.

Much thanks.
:)

[Jake]

Just wanted to say thanks for all the info and advise..

I followed all the steps but my problem seemed to be different.:(

A little investigating and good ol' troubleshooting revealed that the flywheel (drivewheel?) had about a 1/16th of play.

Tightened it and the knocking went away.

Much thanks.
:)
Your welcome, glad to help out.:)

Was it the clutch, motor, basket drive ?

Jake

[Craig2020]

I think I had the same problem as P38Pilot (and I suspect kellyt had the same problem, but something got lost in translation from repair tech to forum). The 15/16ths nut on the large pulley was not snug, so the basket had some slop as described by P38. The nut appears to have a blue Loc-Tite type material in the threads, but it wasn't really giving any grip.

I have to say that once I overcame my trepidation and ripped into the machine, I was very pleasantly surprised at how easy these are to work on compared to the old top loaders - very easy access, no tranny in the way and very intuitive design...of course that will all change if I have to deal with any of the electronics!!!

[Jake]

Yes, thats very true, I love the easy access as well.:)

Jake