ge washer

[virgiiniia]

hello. I have a GE washer (wbse2090a0ww) and it aggitates and drains on every setting just like normal- but it wont spin. It clicks like it's gonna, but never does. It seems like if it was the transmission it wouldnt aggitate. It does everything but spin. Okay thanks. My future is in your hands. P.S. the belt is perfect. VA

[Dan O.]

virgiiniia wrote:
it wont spin. It clicks like it's gonna, but never does.
Does the motor run at that time???

Can the transmission pulley be turned on both directions by hand (with the power disconnected!)

Dan O.
Appliance411.com (http://www.appliance411.com/?ref411=+)
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[virgiiniia]

yes the motor runs- everything "works" except the spin.

yes, it can be moved both directions manually.

Thank you!!!! xxooxox

[Dan O.]

virgiiniia wrote:
the motor runs- everything "works" except the spin.
There's 2 possibilities as I see it, the clutch isn't 'grabbing' so the belt isn't turning the transmission pulley or the transmission is just 'free-wheeling' when it is being driven. I would think the latter would require the transmission to be replaced.

If the washer is less than 5-years old, some part of the transmission (part only) may be covered by warranty. Otherwise, the transmission is fairly expensive (see the following link).

LINK > GE WBSE2090A0WW Transmission (http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?a-1appliance+8pLRhU+newstylgetra.html)


it can be moved both directions manually.
When turned in one direction, the agitator should agitate. When turned in the opposite direction, the whole thing should 'lock up' and rotate the inner tub as the pulley is turned. Are those things happening when the pulley is rotated?

Dan O.
Appliance411.com (http://www.appliance411.com/?ref411=GE+Washer)
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[virgiiniia]

HELLO AGAIN!

I appreciate all of your help. For a moment, I thought it would all be "ok." My washer is dead now. I called GE because it is still under warranty, (if you call the transmission only a warranty) and for the fee of $48, I know now it is my motor. I am kind of P'oed if you will, that I have to pay $48 for NOTHING when I could have called my regular people who charge $15.

Does anyone know if motor number WH20X10019 would work in place of WH20X10009.


Thank you guys for everything.

VA

[Dan O.]

virgiiniia wrote:
I could have called my regular people who charge $15.
I take it they're not an appliance service company? I don't know of any service technicians that charge less than $50 for a service call. I find it hard to believe GE charged only $48. JMO


Does anyone know if motor number WH20X10019 would work in place of WH20X10009?
I'm afraid I don't know what the difference is, maybe the number of speeds???

BTW. The replacement motor for the WH20X10009 one your model takes now comes with the clutch already attached. Otherwise it can be a pain to reinstall the old one.

PS. The cheapest place I found the replacement motor listed is at the following link although the illustration does not show the clutch installed (nor even a real photo - which can be seen at the second link).

LINK > GE WH49X10035 Clutch and Motor Asm. (http://store.yahoo.com/cgi-bin/clink?a-1appliance+8pLRhU+newstylgehwa.html)
LINK > Clutch and Motor Asm. with photo (http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rcpn=WH20X10009)

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com (http://www.appliance411.com/?ref411=GE+Washer)
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

[virgiiniia]

hello again.

so I was wondering if anyone knew where to find a wiring diagram schematics for a WHSE5240DWW it has a 2 speed motor # WH20X10019 and mine was a WH49X10035.

I found a parted out washer and the man said it was an interchangeable motor, but I had to figure out the wiring. He gave it to me- nothing lost if I cant use it- except the dream that I could :)

thank you



va

[aaastan]

The only difference between these is that your original motor used a clutch and this used motor is the newer "clutchless" design.

Look at the old motor switch(where the plugconnects)and see if it is identical to the newer motor switch. If so, it is usually a plug-n-go deal.

I'll check some more to be certain--but GE info is harder to obtain(at least for me).

John

[aaastan]

The only thing that would be of great help----is having the wiring schematics for your washer and the schematic from the other washer.

It appears that the GE washer motors now have more than one harness plug design. I have yet to see the new type!

Sorry I could not be of more help.

John

[virgiiniia]

Dear John and everybody,

UPDATE: Get this- got the new motor in- guess what- still aggitates but wont spin. HOW ABOUT THAT.

So I called GE. They are sending me a "good-will certificate" so I dont have to pay their service tech who claimed it was the motor. (I have since learned that GE motors have a safety sensor inside that shuts them down when they are working but not doing their job-thus preventing overheating and burning up)

So GE is sending me the warranty covered transmission in th US MAIL! YAY! It should be here in 3-7 working days. Yay for GE.

NOW- my man is having trouble getting the 1 1/4 inch bolt off the bottom. Is there a secret to that? Or do you just have to hold your tongue right?

Why did Ispend hundreds of dollars on a new washing machine. Next time I am sticking with the $50 rummage sale one. Listen to me, "next time," I am looking now!

Thanks for listening!



VA

[roadrunner0]

I have a GE washer doing kind of the same thing. It will agitate in high speed but when it comes time to spin it clunks and rattles like its having a seizure. I suspected either the transmission , clutch or motor , since the lights were flickering I checked the motor first. I disconnected the drive belt and powered it up. The motor jerked all over the place going from low to high ,low to high repeatedly. There must be a problem with the speed control in the motor circuit or there is a bad winding is my first guess. Only other thing may be the control board may be goofy as im not shure how the motor speed is actually controlled because I dont see a switch in the motor or an external run capacitor. Let me know what your final fix ended up being, Ray in Ohio ....................

Does anyone have any ideas, parts are not cheep for this thing.

model# wpse4200a0ww

[Jake]

Does anyone have any ideas, parts are not cheep for this thing.
model# wpse4200a0ww
Hi, Jeff has a good GE web page that should help you tell what part is giving you this issue:
http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html

Jake

[roadrunner0]

Thanks for responding Jake,
I could not find anything similar to my problem so I messed with it a little more to try to narrow it down.
After taking the belt off to eliminate the transmission and clutches I ran a spin cycle and the motor was jerking and making the same noise as before. So it seemed that I had a bad Hi/Low switch in the motor as I have seen this behavior before. When I looked in the motor I found the centrifical ( not sure I spelled it right ) actuator but no switch. They must control the motor with a relay contactor scheme on the control board. Which meens that I have a bad winding in the motor or bad relay on the board.
Now the agitation cycle is getting wierd, it starts off fast and strong but after a few minutes it slows down and the motor heats up and goes into thermal protection. This does not always meen a bad motor and I am leaning towards a sticking or bad relay.
Does anyone have the schematics for the control board and the motor windings with Ohm values. I have the motor with the long flat connector. It is a shame to toss the whole $120 controller for the sake of a $3 relay, OOPS my cheep side is showing!

Motor model GE # 5kh61kw2516gs
Washing machine model GE Prodigy # wpse4200a0ww

Thanks , Ray in Ohio

Cable TV Tech 10 years
Industrial Controls 3 years
Copy Machine Technician 5 years
Ham radio call N8QWS 15 years
Do it yourselfer All my Life

[Jake]

I believe i have run into this kind of a problem before in the late 90's on a GE I had do the same thing, it was the motor that i changed that fixed it.

Here is the motor for your model:
2 Speed motor & clutch kit (http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=963750)

Jake

[Mad Mac]

This was a known issue on these - GE came out with a revised motor including a start capacitor and revised wiring harness. As to the schematic for the board..........more chance of getting hold of the nuclear launch codes!

[Jake]

As to the schematic for the board..........more chance of getting hold of the nuclear launch codes!
I know thats right.:) That will be a challenge!:)

Jake

[Bubba2005]

GE profile washer clean cycle operates properly, but spin cycles will not work. I can hold down safety latch and start spinning tub manually, after a few push starts tub, will slowly increase speed and complete cycle. Any ideas for repair? :(

[Jake]

GE profile washer clean cycle operates properly, but spin cycles will not work. I can hold down safety latch and start spinning tub manually, after a few push starts tub, will slowly increase speed and complete cycle. Any ideas for repair? :(
Sounds like your brake assembly on the transmission is going bad and sticking.
Jeff has a good website on GE washers:
http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html (http://www.applianceaid.com/genew.html)

Jake