View Full Version : Dead ends for Maytag Oven?
BTusk
November 16th, 2006, 10:21 AM
To sum up: bought a new "floor model" Maytag Performa Gas range from local Lowes (6/04) - worked wonderfully until 10/06. Oven wont go into Bake/Broil mode - lock light blinks. Tried the self clean option (never used b4 - oven not dirty) runs for maybe 1 min and F9 (door lock error) displays (coinsidentally ignitor does get red hot during this process).
Bad News: No model/serial numbers anywhere on range (must have been removed prior to our purchase - didnt think to look for them at the time - 1st time home buyer duh i guess:o ). No one can fix for me without #s. Repair guy said could be lock switch or ERC - ERC has been sent out and returned error free - lock switch has been replaced (RepairClinic.com) but still no go! ERC people said check Temp Sensor? why would the LOCK Light go on then? should I get a voltage meter or something and check all conections? Any help would be GREATLY appreciated - its almost Thanksgiving!
Jake
November 16th, 2006, 09:03 PM
ERC has been sent out and returned error free
Who did you send this to for the test on it? I have never heard of anyone doing this before, and I don't understand how they can test it without it being hooked up to your range specifically.
To test your oven sensor, un-do the connector to it from the back of your range, then ohm test it, it should read 1100 ohms at room temp. Unplug your range before testing it. If that checks good, I would say it has to be your ERC.
Whats the part# of your ERC?
Jake
BTusk
November 17th, 2006, 08:43 AM
The Company I sent the ERC out to is CG Industries (www.cgiltd.com) - They remanufacture (RFR) appliance controls for most major brands - less expensive than buying a new one - they do it for consumer and the manufacturers. I think they can test the circuits to make sure flow is not interrupted - they were the only people who would help me without a Model/Serial # on the range - i sent them detailed photos or the ERC/Clock.
Im not sure of the part # on the ERC - is it on the ERC?
In the meantime i will ohm test the sensor - THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIMELY RESPONSE!!!:)
Jake
November 17th, 2006, 11:16 PM
Ok, hope you are able to find the problem.
Jake
dkremenliff
November 22nd, 2006, 01:18 AM
If the stovetop is still working, I suggest you try replacing the oven's heat sensor, a $50 part. I was getting an F-1 error and couldn't get my oven to work at all, although the stove top still worked. A new control panel was over $200 so I figured I'd go the cheaper route first with the heat sensor and that did the trick. Just my two cents worth. Good luck.
BTusk
November 29th, 2006, 11:10 AM
To test your oven sensor, un-do the connector to it from the back of your range, then ohm test it, it should read 1100 ohms at room temp. Unplug your range before testing it. If that checks good, I would say it has to be your ERC.
Jake
Ohm tested the sensor - exactly 1100 ohms at room temp - thanks for the suggestion though - I understand that u still think its the ERC (although that has already been given a clean bill of health) - any other options? Coincidentally i bought a new range (not a Maytag) in time for Thanksgiving, but id like to fix the old one anyway. Now there's no rush!
Thanks again for all help!
Jake
November 29th, 2006, 12:30 PM
I can't think of what else it can be.
I know I'm very blunt at times, but sending a ERC off to a testing place is something I have never heard of before, and I simply don't trust anyone else testing appliance parts other than the appliance tech. that is with your product.
I would advise you to get a Maytag tech (http://www.maytag.com/mths/cust_serv/default.jsp?cs=0&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&cf=home) out to repair your range, your running out of options, I'm afraid.:)
Jake
BTusk
November 29th, 2006, 02:04 PM
Yes im running out of options. I already had a "Maytag" repair person out - and I'll be blunt when i say he was LESS THAN HELPFUL and explained that he couldnt do anything for me without a Model and Serial #. $69 dollars and told me its etither my ERC or lock switch (never mentioned the temp sensor) and left it to me to find the parts - of course he said they could install them for me once I found them! I suppose not all technicians are as altruisitic as others!
I am a bit surprised that you havent stumbled across the remanufacturing of ERCs. I found 4 companies that do this (Google Search) - apparently even manufacturers send ERCs under warranty to companies like CGI because its cheaper than a new part - they also repair parts that are no longer available as new - its also seems more environmentally sensible to repair than to throw away - AND i couldnt be sure that i was getting the right ERC from an online photo (i think i looked at every photo on RepairClinic.com) without my #s. Sort of a last resort for me.
I wonder if anyone else has had any experience with ERC repair services. Thanks again for you input - it looks like i'll be giving this oven away to anyone who wants to take it off my hands!:(
Jake
November 29th, 2006, 11:15 PM
I have had some, very few remanufactored ERC's that is the only thing left to install, as the parts supplier quit making them new, but never on a Maytag thats only 2 years old.
I'm surprised that the maytag tech. couldn't get the part# off the original ERC, because I know they all stamp the part# on them.
Jake
BTusk
November 30th, 2006, 06:38 AM
Just a side note - I was the one (not the tech) who disconnected and examined the ERC and contacted the original manufacturer of that part from the stamp on the panel - a company called Invensys Systems. They were the one's who actually directed me to CGI for remanufacturing since they couldnt help me. Otherwise I might not have gone that direction at all.
Have a great day!
Jake
November 30th, 2006, 10:35 AM
Ok, thats fine. I guess as a tech. I'm just so used to testing that board myself and determining if I'm getting the proper voltages coming out of it to fire up the bake and broil burners and If I'm not getting the proper voltages out of it, I automatically replace the control board with a new one, which has always fixed it.
But yes, since the model# tag is missing, it makes it more difficult all around.
Jake
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