rlsmith
May 3rd, 2007, 09:18 PM
My ten-year-old Amana washer model LW9203W2 (PLW9203W2B) stopped in the middle of a load with a full tub. The washer will not spin or agitate. The washer fills fine. The pump is motor-driven so obviously it will not drain either.
This is has an electronic control module with self-diagnostics. When running diagnostics everything works except the motor doesn't run.
My hope was a defective lid switch (combined with out-of-balance detection on this model). Unfortunately the switch works fine. Next hope was an open thermal protector on the motor. No dice.
The circuit diagram was inside the control panel. With my multimeter I was able to determine that the relays controlling the motor (hi/lo, spin/agitate) never energize. The relays controlling the fill valve work fine.
I constructed a set of patch cords to bypass the control module and directly energize the motor. The motor started right up. So I was able to drain the tub.
Does this mean the control module needs to be replaced? Unfortunately that is a $300 part since it is a sandwich of two circuit cards plus the soft-touch buttons and LED display. If the boards weren't sandwiched I could probably fix the problem but I can't even see between them very well with a dental mirror.
Item 822995 Electronic control kit, almond
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=822995
Three questions:
(1) Could anything else be wrong that is causing this problem?
(2) Is there any way to fix the control module cheaper than $300?
(3) Is it advisable to spend $300 on a 10-year-old washer? I like the features (stainless tub, etc.) and it washed fine. And it matches the dryer. But I could get a pretty good few-year-old washer on craigslist for that price or less.
This is has an electronic control module with self-diagnostics. When running diagnostics everything works except the motor doesn't run.
My hope was a defective lid switch (combined with out-of-balance detection on this model). Unfortunately the switch works fine. Next hope was an open thermal protector on the motor. No dice.
The circuit diagram was inside the control panel. With my multimeter I was able to determine that the relays controlling the motor (hi/lo, spin/agitate) never energize. The relays controlling the fill valve work fine.
I constructed a set of patch cords to bypass the control module and directly energize the motor. The motor started right up. So I was able to drain the tub.
Does this mean the control module needs to be replaced? Unfortunately that is a $300 part since it is a sandwich of two circuit cards plus the soft-touch buttons and LED display. If the boards weren't sandwiched I could probably fix the problem but I can't even see between them very well with a dental mirror.
Item 822995 Electronic control kit, almond
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=1265&N=822995
Three questions:
(1) Could anything else be wrong that is causing this problem?
(2) Is there any way to fix the control module cheaper than $300?
(3) Is it advisable to spend $300 on a 10-year-old washer? I like the features (stainless tub, etc.) and it washed fine. And it matches the dryer. But I could get a pretty good few-year-old washer on craigslist for that price or less.