Oops. Nevermind. Test just finished. I've got a Wash light (heater fault), and the same symptoms as decsribed in several spots on this forum (long cycle time, low heat).
I've got a burnt pin on the circuit board, in fact the exact burnt area as shown in the ApplianceAid Bosch D/W site. Thanks Jeff.
Couple questions:
1) I don't see any two wires (or anything) available to soldier as mentioned in other posts. Is there a way to repair it?
2) Assuming I need to order a board, do I order Repair Clinic item #467087 ? Looks like that part is the two boards inside the full plastic cover. Is there a part number for just the main board?
3) I have a jumper on the Southwest corner of the board (as viewed the same way as on the example picture on ApplianceAid Bosch page. I don't see it on any of the pictures or part diagrams. Do I transfer that jumper to the new board or not?
Last edited by BenLasher; February 5th, 2006 at 11:38 AM.
I don't see any two wires (or anything) available to soldier as mentioned in other posts. Is there a way to repair it?
Sometimes can clean up and resolder the pin spot.
Assuming I need to order a board, do I order Repair Clinic item #467087 ? Looks like that part is the two boards inside the full plastic cover. Is there a part number for just the main board?
Very possible that is the correct one for your model, the boards are inside a plastic cover and the boards do not come without the cover.
I have a jumper on the Southwest corner of the board (as viewed the same way as on the example picture on ApplianceAid Bosch page. I don't see it on any of the pictures or part diagrams. Do I transfer that jumper to the new board or not?
Pulled the circuit board last night. Cleaned off the burnt pin with a little piece of emery cloth. Touched it up with a soldering iron and some fresh solder.
Ran the DW through a cycle.
VOILA!
Back to a 90 minute cycle, with clean dishes, and a lot of heat coming from the unit during the dry cycle.
OK, I checked the resistance on the NTC. Temperature of water in bottom of dishwasher was 70 degrees. Resistance was 63.7K ohms. Is that close enough to spec? Or does that mean NTC is bad. I am not sure how big a range is acceptable.
Thanks for the help!!
The normal reading for the negative thermal coefficient sensor is 55k Ohms at approximately 72 Degrees F. If you have soldered the heater relay your next step will be to verify relay operation. fficeffice" />>> >>
With the outer door panel removed you can either run the unit in a test mode or have it run through a quick wash cycle. Follow the wire harness running down the outer door from the control board to the wash system. Locate the thick red wire in the wiring harness. Once the heater relay closes check for voltage from the relay through the red wire. Since you can't remove the wire from the main board while the test is in progress it would be helpful if you had a line Voltage tester. If you have verified the relay is applying voltage to the heating assembly, and you can measure amperage through the heater circuit with an amp meter then you may get away with just replacing the NTC. Your NTC reading is out by more then 10%. I would advise you to replace it. This may be a big undertaking. >> >>
Always remember to preheat the water supply to the Dishwasher before each cycle to prevent relay failures. It will not prevent a NTC failure, but it will save you energy. I have attached a .pdf file for your reference.>> >>
I hope this information has been of assistance >>
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Control module
Originally Posted by JohnF
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