Took out the drum from Kenmore-Frigidaire Stacker Center to renew

glides and rear bearing. About half the heater coil looks nicely tucked into the

porcelain isolator prongs, but the upper half looks very wavy and is almost popping

out of its supports. Would like to compress/stretch/bend the wire to rework the coil

back where it needs to be, but I wonder if the wire is brittle or if handling it would

weaken or shorten its life.

Generally it is okay to *unbulge* the heater coil and re-install onto the ceramic insulators. If this isn't done,the heater may come into contact with the drum as it turns.I have seen very old heaters that worked well after adjustments. If you have a newer model laundry center that has not been used like a laundromat(over 10-12 loads/laundry per week),the heater may be deformed due a blocked or partially blocked exhaust vent system. Many,many times I have seen condos or apartments that have aninsanely long vent system--often behind the wall and not accessible. This is a job best given to a professional vent cleaning service.

Make sure that you have a helper to re-install the front of your dryer. This is tough to put back on without disturbing your new front drum glide kit. Check that the blower housing duct is lined up with the blower as well. Good luck.



John

Hi,

Yes, after time that heater coil will get weak and could possibly break if you rework it and reset it.

On most of the round heater coils, you can buy a new coil for far less then the whole assembly, and install it in the isolators.

Jake

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ogglebog wrote:
If you get 2 of the element coil links too close together, it will gnerate a 'hot spot' and burn out prematurely.

JFYI

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

Thanks for all the replies. Since the dryer is fairly young (6yr), I went ahead and took the risk. Coil looks pretty decent now, and nothing cracked or broke. Took extra care to make sure spacing is even so no hot spots. Wonder about that vent pipe comment: mine is 16ft of metal flex w/2 90's, then goes into another 8ft of 4" hard pipe w/2 30 degree bends then goes into a 6" plenum (shares with bath fan) with one of those 6" constantly open roof cap "hats" (no flappers). There's also a 4" damper inline with both the bath fan and dryer so neither one blows into the other. Maybe all this restriction cause the heater to deform? I don't know what else to do. If I cut hole in wall, landlord will see it and I get evicted :shock:. On the roof he don't see it!

ogglebog wrote:
Sounds good!


Sounds very bad!!! :shock:

You can read about dryer venting at the following link although it doesn't mention that you can NOT according to any building code I'm aware of, connect a dryer vent to any other exhaust vent. It is a fire hazard!!

LINK > How long can my dryer vent be?

For safety's sake, please have it looked into... soon! :shock:


Have him correct it. If you have no alternative, using an indoor vent kit (see the following link) would be preferable (although I don't like them myself). Maybe only until a proper dryer vent can be installed?

LINK > Indoor Vent Kit


I would say that is a very good possibility.

JMO

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

Ya, according to that link, I'm way over on length and elbows, too. Luckily, it's all exposed so I can rework it. I was evaluating performance instead of safety. Dry time has been fine, but seems like the real issue is the buildup of lint on the longer runs, according to the article. I'll go out the wall directly behind the unit and plant large shrubs to conceal the vent hood (lease prohibits installation of laundry machines completely, why I chose the roof vent in the first place).

ogglebog wrote:
I think that is the best solution.

Dan O.
Appliance411.com
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~