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November 5th, 2006, 03:39 PM
#1
Norge dryer wont heat, Coils-gas valve?
I have an old Norge dryer that is converted for propane. I has been trouble free for the past 10 years. I think it is an 1986 or so model. It says heavy duty 20 on the front of it. Anyway. The dryer spins fine but never heats up. The igniter glows red then the flame sensor snaps and the secondary coil never lets gas through the valve. I have ohmed both coils and they are within spec. before I read all this wonderfull information online I started testing components and I thought the problem was inside the gas valve. I took apart the valve and regulator and found nothing wrong. My question is this. Most people say that the coils when they fail they are either open or the will work for a while and then when they get hot, they will quite. My question is why do mine test good but not work. I am getting 110 volts on 2 of the 3 wires going to the 3 wire coil and 110 on both wires of the 2 wire coil. There seems to be no neutral going to that coil but then I found out that when the flame sensor snaps the current flow is reversed or something going to that 2 wire coil. I imagine that when that flame sensor snaps there would then be a neutral. Do I have a coil problem or wiring problem. I dont think I messed anything up when I dissasembled the valve. I did notice one of the spring loaded plungers inside the valve had a longer shaft on it. It think I put that in the valve closest to the gas exit. one more thing. When the flame sensor does close, I can smell a little gas but no flame, then gas flame goes away and the process repeats. Im a master auto tech, I have a good understanding of 12v electronics but not much with 110ac and appliances.
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November 6th, 2006, 12:08 AM
#2
Hi,
Even though your gas coils test good with an ohm meter, the solenoid/plunger could be sticking on you.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
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November 6th, 2006, 05:50 AM
#3
I don't think that is the case because when I dissasembled the gas valve the plungers seem to be nice and free. I was also wonder. When I took off the 3 terminal coil, the shaft the coil goes around has some sort of sleave cut in half around it. Whats the purpose of this. And does anyone know which valve does the plunger with the longest shaft go into. thanks
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November 6th, 2006, 09:11 AM
#4
It may move freely, but with electric supplied to it, the solenoid would not move it enough for the gas to open fully.
Hopefully we can get another tech. or member to verify what valve the longest shaft plunger goes into.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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November 6th, 2006, 11:04 AM
#5
I think Im going to replace the coils and see what happens. It would be nice if someone could verify where the longest valve goes. thanks mike
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November 6th, 2006, 11:57 PM
#6
Ok, Mike, keep us posted on how it goes.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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November 20th, 2006, 05:34 AM
#7
Update. I installed new coils and they did change the situation. Tthe ignitor l glows red and then you hear the flame sensor snap like before but now I get a flame, but it is only for about 2 seconds and it seems like its running out of gas. The flame probably isn't a large as it should be. I might describe it better as a puff of a flame. But before I did not get this. Do you think installing those gas valves in wrong could cause this. I need to know where the long shaft valve goes. Any ideas from here would be greatly appreciated. Here is my model number LDG9120S00 thanks mike
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November 20th, 2006, 08:41 AM
#8
Glad it seems to be trying to work better Mike, but unless I can actually see your gas valve, I can't tell you where the long shaft valve goes, I tryed to look up your gas valve, but its been discontinued.
So unless you take a digital photo of it (850x850 max) and upload it here, theres not much I can tell you.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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November 20th, 2006, 11:10 AM
#9
update: I took the gas valve apart and switch around the plungers. Installed the valve back on dryer and it didn't light the first round but did the second but only for about 10 seconds and went out. they flame didn't seem big enough but yet the flame actually stayed lit for a little while. after it was lit it didn't want to light again. I can smell gas pretty heavy when the flame goes out. I think I have a pressure regulator problem or flow problem. I see there is a plug in the valve possible for a pressure guage. Can I hook up a guage and see if the regulator is working. Can you explain to me what I need to check. thanks mike
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November 20th, 2006, 11:48 AM
#10
I never hooked up a pressure guage to a dryer gas valve, but maybe another tech. or member has that can help you out.
But even if your gas valve is bad, that part has been discontinued, no way to get a new one.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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