FSG747GES1 won't start, even after replacing motor - ApplianceBlog.com

***Wiz_222*** · #1 July 23rd, 2008, 07:37 PM

Initial problem was, dryer would frequently fail to start. turning the start control resulted in a buzzing sound. I tried moving the drum manually, and sometimes it would work after that. Eventually after trying various settings, it changed to just a click when the start button is turned. After reading several posts decided it must be the motor so ordered on with overnight shipping. I've install the new motor and the behavior did not change. Even with the belt disconnected the I just got a clicking sound. The motor and blower fan turn easily.
Here is a post some one else described almost the same issue (http://applianceguru.com/forum2/5435.html). I've isolating the clicking sound to a relay or solenoid on the control panel

Several months ago I replaced the solenoids, and belt.

So where do I go from here? I'm out $175 for the motor and shipping. I''d rather not buy any more parts I don't need.

Thanks,
Paul

***Jake*** · #2 July 23rd, 2008, 08:40 PM

Hi Paul,

Thats very strange, I've been repairing appliances for 20 years and never once replaced a control board for a buzzing no-start motor. But like the old saying goes, "just when you thought you've seen everything"

Where did you buy the motor from?

Jake

***redbeardnmt*** · #3 July 23rd, 2008, 08:55 PM

Hi Paul,

Start with the obvious and re-check your wire connections. Check the thermal fuse and door switch. Make sure the dryer has power. Just because you hear the clicking sound doesn't mean it's getting the full 110VAC power supply. It sounds like the control board has possibly gone south.

***Wiz_222*** · #4 July 24th, 2008, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jake

Hi Paul,

Thats very strange, I've been repairing appliances for 20 years and never once replaced a control board for a buzzing no-start motor. But like the old saying goes, "just when you thought you've seen everything"

Where did you buy the motor from?

Jake

Jake,

I got the motor from PartsSelect, (hadn't found your site at that point darn it) I had bought one locally to save time and shipping and when I got ready to install it discovered it was the wrong model. Their supplier was out of stock with an August due date, of the correct model so they suggested PartsSelect. My motor has a three wire connector coming out of the coils of the motor as well as the two or three inch long multi-connector, the local motor didn't.

The control board is pretty expensive to replace to isolate the problem. Any suggestions on how to isolate the defective part?

Paul

***Jake*** · #5 July 24th, 2008, 08:07 AM

Paul,

Just to make sure we're on the same page, you got the correct motor from PartsSelect and installed it and it didn't fix it? Did you make sure it was the correct motor part# from the manufacturer?

Here's the motor for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 131511900

131511900

Jake

***Wiz_222*** · #6 July 24th, 2008, 09:10 AM

Jake,

Yes the motor I purchased and installed was the same part number, and just like the picture posted. The motor I purchased locally, and didn't install was a different number and didn't have the extra connector that hangs loose shown in the picture.

redbeardnmt, said:
Start with the obvious and re-check your wire connections. Check the thermal fuse and door switch. Make sure the dryer has power. Just because you hear the clicking sound doesn't mean it's getting the full 110VAC power supply. It sounds like the control board has possibly gone south.

I'll do that tonight when I get home. I'm pretty sure the door switch is working correctly, the light is on when extended and goes out when I press it in simulating closing the door.

How do I check the thermal fuse, and where is it? Is it one of these parts?
I have a meter and can check voltage to the motor, do you know which wires to test? I'm a work right now so can't look at it, but as in the picture Jake posted there is the loose connector with three wires going to it (red, brown and black in the picture) as well as the main block connector which had six or more. Can I assume that the blue and yellow wires in the picture are the 120AC leads?

Thanks to both of you,

Paul

***Jake*** · #7 July 24th, 2008, 04:17 PM

Its not likely your thermal fuse, or it won't do anything at all.

I was trying to locate the a repair manual online for free, but can't find one.

I don't know off hand without the tech. sheet which wires on the motor to check, but the repair manual would say.

Here's the repair manual for your model:
Frigidaire Gas & Electric Dryers Repair Manual

Jake

***Wiz_222*** · #8 July 24th, 2008, 04:49 PM

I checked with a meter and I have continuity across the safety thermostat. I also have continuity across the door switch. I checked the thermostat mounted to the blower housing and there are six wires connected. I do have continuity across some of them. With it plugged in and the top off when I twist the start switch I hear a relay on the control board click and a faint whirring from the timer switch. Since repairclinic does accept returns what would you suggest I order? A control board? Anything else? I could order another motor just to make sure the replacement motor was not defective. I'll get the manual as well. If I follow that link and order more parts you'll get the referral won't you?

***redbeardnmt*** · #9 July 24th, 2008, 05:46 PM

Look on the motor switch. The terminals should be numbered. Set your meter to read AC volts. Put one probe on #M4. This is the wire comming from the control board. Put the other probe on #M5. This is the wire comming from the Neutral side of the power source (the cord). You shouldn't have any voltage present. Push the start switch and you should get a reading of 120 VAC. Results: No volts=Replace control board. 120 VAC=Replace motor.

***redbeardnmt*** · #10 July 24th, 2008, 06:10 PM

I just found this wire diagram. Should be the same as yours.

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