[FIXED] Frigidaire timer again?!?! - ApplianceBlog.com

***ellaryk*** · #1 July 17th, 2009, 02:47 PM

Frigidaire model GLTF1670AS0 SN: XC42416452

I can set the time dial on the start of any cycle and the cycle will initiate but not complete. The timer dial does not move. For example, if I set the dial on the start of a wash cycle, water will fill the tub but not stop. If I set the dial to any final spin cycle, the washer makes noises like it does to start that cycle but it never spins.

I replaced this timer the first of this year.

Help!

***Jake*** · #2 July 17th, 2009, 04:42 PM

Thats odd that the water won't shut off, its either the water inlet valve or the water level pressure switch, try it again, and this time pull the electrical plug out of the wall and see if the water stops, if it doesn't then its definitely a bad water inlet valve.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
Manufacturer part#134190200 is RepairClinic item#1014339

Let me know what happens.

Jake

***ellaryk*** · #3 July 17th, 2009, 09:41 PM

We turned it off by pushing in the time knob and the water stopped. We also pulled the plug and the water stopped.
When we set the timer to a final spin cycle it doesn't spin, it just sits. Any point we set the timer at it doesn't move.

***Jake*** · #4 July 18th, 2009, 09:31 AM

Ok,

Does the water pump drain out ok, then the tub just sits on final spin?

Here is the speed control board for your model:
Spin control board assembly

All parts come with a 30 day full refund, even if you installed them.

For the water not stopping when filling, does the tub fill up with water, or does it just drain right back out through your drain hose? I've the drain hose pushed to far down the drain pipe in your home and cause a siphon effect and thus it would fill continuously but never fill the tub.

If thats not the case and it is filling the tub but the water not stopping, its possibly your water level pressure switch thats bad.

Manufacturer's Number: 134433701

134433701

If you purchase parts from our links here and you install them and it doesn't fix the problem, you have a 30 day full refund when you return them.

Jake

***ellaryk*** · #5 July 18th, 2009, 01:37 PM

I ran the diagnostic in the service manual for "Timer does not advance" and got the following results: after 3 min of operation the voltage between pins 5 of both plugs was 120V. When the manual says "plug" I assume it means the male side of the connector that has the wires and not the female side connected to the board. If this assumption is correct then the result I get means the speed control board is defective.

I then also ran the diagnostic in the service manual for the "Drive motor does not turn" symptom and got the following results:

Resistance between pins 1 & 2, 2 & 3 and 1 & 3 of 6 pin plug of speed control board is good: about 3.4 ohms, no open or shorts: motor OK.

Voltage between pins 5 & 6 of 6 pin plug is 120 volts (white and black wires) with power connected: power to board is good.

Voltage between pin 5 of 6 pin plug and pins 1,2,6,9 & 10 of ten pin plug is zero (actually .1V) when power on and washer set to start of heavy wash cycle and the knob pulled out to turn the cycle on. This means a defective timer according to the manual. (The only voltage I read is between pins 5 of both plugs at 120V.)

I assume the "Timer does not advance" diagnostic trumps the "Drive motor does not turn" diagnostic in this case so the speed control is defective.

If you concur I'll order a speed control board.

And yes, when I set the timer to any Final Spin cycle the water drains out OK then just sits.

It's not that I don't trust your suggestions but I'd rather not throw parts at this problem since I need to get this running quickly. I'd prefer to get it right the first time.

Thanks again for your help.

***Jake*** · #6 July 18th, 2009, 10:21 PM

I completely understand.

Good job testing everything, looks like the motor control board will fix it.

I've replaced a ton of these in the last 10 years, very common to go out.

Jake

***ellaryk*** · #7 July 19th, 2009, 01:11 PM

You were also right a few months ago about the shock absorbers being broken. Both are broken off the tub at the tub mount.
What is the lubricant the manual recommends? Is it silicone grease?
And what causes these to break?
Thanks again.

***Jake*** · #8 July 19th, 2009, 03:45 PM

I never use any lubricant when I install new ones.

Quote:

And what causes these to break?

Overloading the washer.

Jake

***ellaryk*** · #9 July 25th, 2009, 10:59 AM

The Speed control board did not fix the problem. With the new board it behaves the same way. But the voltage between the two #5 pins is 120V. I do want to be sure I've got the correct location of the 5 pin on the 10 pin upper plug. The picture in the manual shows the connector on the board with this arrangement:
5 10
4 9
3 8
2 7
1 6
So when I transfer this to the plug and turn the plug so the openings face me I see the reverse:
10 5
9 4
8 3
7 2
6 1
Which means I'm measuring the voltage to the top right pin as that plug faces me. Is this correct? (If not, I did measure the voltage to the other pin and it was zero).

So do I go for a new timer? Or is the new speed control board bad? Is there some way to independently test the timer?

***Jake*** · #10 July 25th, 2009, 10:39 PM

No, there's no way to test the timer.

Really don't know what to suggest, from what you tested it looks like the motor board was bad, but since that didn't fix it, its possibly the timer again.

Here's the timer for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 134014700

134014700

Jake

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