2Likes
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June 10th, 2012, 08:55 AM
#1
Frigedaire Gallery Front Loader won't run, door lock light on.
Brand:
Frigidaire
Age:
6-10 years
Help, I have a Frigedaire Gallery front loading washer that is not running during any cycle. The door lock light will turn on, but that is it. Prior to this it tripped the breaker mid cycle. Restarted the load and it tripped the breaker when it was about to enter a spin cycle. After that it tripped the breaker anytime you tried to turn it on. I ran power to another breaker via extension cord and it no longer tripped the breaker, but would not run at all. Now, no matter what breaker I use, nothing will happen, just door lock light on. No cycle will start.
History, I replaced the inner tub basket 6 months ago due to a broken spindle. 3 months ago, had a clog and had to clean out the drain, but have run at least 20 loads since then, probably 75 loads since replacing the basket.
Any help would be appreciated, I thought about replacing the door lock assembly, however that wouldn't explain tripping the breaker would it? Have checked the wiring to see if somehow a wire was pinched and burned out, but don't see anything. I'm not great with electrical wiring, so not sure what the next step is...Took the speed control board out and didn't see anything wrong, there was some slight discoloration around one area (green side).
Thanks for any and all help!
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June 10th, 2012, 09:49 AM
#2
Its likely the spin control board assembly thats bad.
There is also a fuse on that spin control board, check it with a ohm meter to see if its good, should have continuity(0-1 ohm on your ohm meter).
Here's the spin control board for your model you can order here:
Part#134149220 is RepairClinic Item #1206430
Spin control board assembly
All parts come with a 365 day full refund, even if you installed them.
In the bottom of your washer, you should have a tech. data sheet, it tells you what to check for when the tub is not turning if the fuse is good.
But 90% of the time when the tub does not turn at all in wash or spin, then its the spin control board.
Let us know what you find.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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June 10th, 2012, 11:19 AM
#3
Thanks for the reply, should it fill with water, then not do anything if it is the speed control board? At this point it is not doing anything at all. IE not a single cycle will run. No fill, or drain. The only thing that happens is the door lock light turns on...
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June 10th, 2012, 11:30 AM
#4
Thanks for the reply, should it fill with water, then not do anything if it is the speed control board?
Exactly.
If the tub has water in it, it can't fill anymore anyway.
Ohm test the fuse on the spin control board.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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June 10th, 2012, 11:43 AM
#5
The fuse in the spin control board is good (reading 0 Ohm). I should've stated earlier that water had been drained already. So even with it empty it is not filling with water.
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June 10th, 2012, 12:30 PM
#6
Ok, next step.
Ohm the PTC on the door latch switch assembly.
To test the door lock switch:
Remove the door lock assembly and measure the resistance of the PTC.
The PTC is the wax motor on the door lock assembly. You will need an ohm meter to test that.
If it reads 1500 ohms, then its fine.
Here's the door latch assembly for your model you can order click here:
Manufacturer part number 131763202 is RepairClinic item number 1531974

its easiest to get to it from the top panel of your washer, take the top panel off then reach your arm down and pull it up, remove the electrical connectors to it. The electrical connectors may only allow you to pull it up a few inches until you remove them.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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June 10th, 2012, 12:41 PM
#7
Door lock switch is definitely bad, before reading this, I pulled it off, opened it up, and the copper wire inside had burned through.
So I will definitely be ordering this...my question is, could a faulty door lock switch have caused the breaker to trip? Or was something else causing the breaker to trip, and switching on the breaker and re-starting multiple times lead to the failure of the door lock switch?
I checked the pump motor (since it was right there) and it was reading 12.8 ohms, it should be in the 14-16 range? Could this have caused the breaker trip (both times it tripped mid cycle it was near the draining cycle)?
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June 10th, 2012, 04:14 PM
#8
Its just the door latch switch you need to order then.
I checked the pump motor (since it was right there) and it was reading 12.8 ohms, it should be in the 14-16 range? Could this have caused the breaker trip (both times it tripped mid cycle it was near the draining cycle)?
Your pump is fine, its close enough to 14 ohms.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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June 10th, 2012, 05:09 PM
#9
Excellent, Part is ordered through the site. Many thanks for your help! Hopefully I will not be visiting back except to say all is well.
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June 10th, 2012, 06:59 PM
#10
Ok, sounds good, keep us posted.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
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