Hello, I have a Frigidaire stacked top load washer/dryer
Model # FEZ831CAS2 It's fairly new, maybe 3 years old.

The washer will fill and agitate fine but as soon as it is finished agitating the timer/control knob clicks as if to go to the next cycle but the washer does nothing, it won't drain or spin, and is completetly silent. I advanced the knob to the next spin cycle and still nothing.

I drained the tub by hand to see if it would spin, and nothing. I pulled the front cover off and checked the lid switch with an ohm meter, it was fine.

I removed the inlet and outlet hoses from the pump, when I did so the left over water came rushing out both ends, so I don't think they are blocked. I checked the pump there was nothing caught in the impeller and it turned freely.

I reconnected the pump and with the tub completely empty I avanced the knob to the spin cycle and pulled it out, still nothing, not a sound.

I'm not sure what to do/check next, any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you,
Matt

If the lid switch checks ok, I would check power to the motor when the timer is in the spin cycle, if no power to the motor, then look for a broken wire to the motor, if none, then its a timer problem.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Hi Jake, thanks for the help.
referring to this wiring diagram: ftp://ftp.electrolux-na.com/ProdInfo.../134135900.pdf
I tested for power between:
M5 and M1
M6 and M3
M6 and M7
I'm not sure which one I should have power at, but none of them had power.
I did this testing with the power to the unit turned on, the timer in the final spin mode with the knob pulled out, the lid closed and the tub empty.

What other condition must be met before it will spin, does it have to sense there is some water or a load in the tub?

I did notice that the little arm that locks the lid during spin mode (part of the lid switch assembly) is not moving over into the locked position, should it?

I'd like to test the water pump to see if it was getting any voltage to tell it to start pumping out water, but I guess I would have to put water in the tub, and I don't really want to go through the ordeal of emptying it by hand again, (I live in an apartment so it isn't easy). But when there was water in the tub, neither the motor or the pump motor made a sound once it had finished agitating and clicked into the next cycle, so I don't think there was power getting to it.

Thanks again for the help

Matt

Oh yeah, one more thing, I spun the inner tub by hand and it spins nice and freely so there is nothing caught between the inner and outer tubs. Also when I turn the motor by hand one way it agitates and the other way the tub spins just like it's supposed to. Everything moves smoothly.

Matt

Yes, it should if your getting power to that lid switch, you said it checked good right? with continuity?

I would say you have a bad timer, or a bad power connection somewhere, I would undo the large connectors to look for burned spots first.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

I checked to make sure I was getting continuity at the lid switch with the lid closed, I didn't check the lid lock though. The lid lock would be activated by a voltage across the 2 terminals activating an electromagnet to pull the lock into position correct? So I'm not geting power here either, so you're right there has to be something wrong further up.
I will tear more of it apart and check for bad connections.
Could it still be the timer even though none of the other spin cycles work. like the ones in delicates or permanent press?

Thanks again for the help!

Matt

Yes, it could be the timer causing this issue, but do check all your wiring connections first.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

From what I can see all the wiring looks ok. Would I be able to use a jumper wire at the timer plug and jumper the 2 (or more) terminals that would have to be closed in order to make it spin? If it did spin this would tell me for sure its the timer.

Thanks,
Matt

Yes, Then if it did spin, then your timer would be bad.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

I finally got a chance to look at the machine again.

I didn't try jumping the connecter because I wasn't sure which connections to start jumpering and I wasn't sure if I should unplug the connecter from the timer and jumper it that way, or jumper it from the back of the connecter with it still plugged in.

I did a little more testing.
The machine fills then agitates. When it's at the end of the cycle the timer clicks once and stops agitating then after about 4 secs it clicks twice then a second later clicks twice again and thats it.

I tested the voltage at the water pump. During agitation I got 50Vac at the pump. After the first click (stopped agitating) it went down to 30v then after the 2 sets of clicks it went down to 0V.
The water pump motor says it needs 115Vac.

At the main motor I got 119V between
M1 and M5
M6 and M3
M6 and M7 during agitation. As soon as it finished agitating the voltage dropped to 0V and stayed there through all the clicks.

I'm not sure if this says definitively its the timer or not. I'm definitely not getting the voltage at the pump to turn it on.

Any ideas what to do next?

Thanks!
Matt