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#1
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Hello,
So last week I decided to try out the cleaning feature on my oven. After completing the cycle the oven will not turn off. I bought a new $200 control panel. No dice. The burners work great, but the oven wont stop going. I'm not sure how hot it gets. The thermostat seems to work as it shows it preheated. What else could it be? model. Hotpoint RB787WT1WW interestingly a google search of "hotpoint oven wont turn off" turns up another poor soul with the same problem. |
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#2
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Hi,
Here's the parts diagram for your model: RB787WT1WW Diagram#4 Part location#16 is your electronic clock control board, thats what you replaced, and didn't fix it? Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Jake thanks for chimming in. yes that is the part I bought (it had part number WB27K5128 on it). I took out each off the wires one at a time and placed them on the corresponding leads on the new part.
Turned the breaker back on and whammo no effect. Although I was irritated that I had to buy a huge circuit board for a temperature problem, I was sure that this would fix it as there does not seem to be much more that is servicable. that being said, although I'm handy I'm no appliance repair person. I've got a multimeter with a continuity tester so if you've got any suggestions I'm eager. Luckily no turkey baking was scheduled for today. however grandma is coming soon and she will go to fits if she can not bake cookies for the kids. Really she kinda looks like this ![]() |
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#4
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Its possible your bake or broil element in your oven is grounding to your range chassis causing an always "ON" condition.
Unplug or turn your range breakers off, then pull your range out from the wall, then open the back access panel, and do a continuity test on both elements to chassis ground, if you get continuity when testing then thats the problem. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Jake,
Turned out my continuity tester needed batteries. Just got them and did some tests. Continuity between middle wire of power supply and chassis - positive Continuty between broiler leads and chassis - negative continuty between range (bottom) leads and chassis - negative. Also, when I plugged it in for the test this time the range did NOT heat up. I noticed that the last time I plugged it in, the bottom element had a hot spot (glowing red) as if that spot had a higher resistance. Once it cooled, I checked that spot and the element is cracked at that point. So again to repeat. After an autoclean cycle, the oven continued to heat uncontrolably (not sure to what temp.) I think both elements got hot, but not sure if the broiler was on before. This occured through several cycles of turning off the breaker. I noticed that bottom element was bent and then had a red hot spot. This spot turned out to be a crack in the element, not a complete break Now only the broiler element works Note the thermostat turns off the broiler at the correct temp. Any new ideas? |
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#6
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This is an odd one, you may have to contact GE to have a tech. come out to check it all over.
It sounds like you need a new bake element though, here's the one for your model: Manufacturer part#WB44K5012 is RepairClinic item#1944 ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#7
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Jake et al. Well after replacing the bake element, all is fine in mudville. So here is what I think happened.
1) the element failed and for some reason this caused the controller to refuse to turn off 2) the controller failed which then caused the element to overheat. I vote for #2 because that means I did not waste $200 on the controller. Thank you for your help. this is a great forum. That being said I am tired of buying electronics for my appliances and would instead like to buy myself some electronic toys. -dave |
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#8
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Sounds good Dave, glad its back to normal again.
![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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