Hi, problem with oven turning on, broiler works fine. I've read a few blogs and I think the problem is the igniter (GE WB13K21 is the replacement). The problem is that I replaced the igniter and it still failed to glow, so I returned it thinking it could have been defective. I started reading a few more blogs about cutting and splicing the old plug to the new igniter, but before I cut any wires, I wanted to check on this blog. One thing I did notice is that the plug on the original igniter is set so it can only plug in a one way (looks like 2 D D side by side) and the new igniter is reversed. The question I'm getting to is, does it make a difference if I plug in the new igniter this way or do I have to cut and splice so the new igniter goes in the plug the same way as the old igniter (basicly reversing the wires)? I appreciate any help I can get.

Thanks Roosta56

Hi Roosta56,

Please check your model# again, you should have another number and 2 letters after the H at the end of your model# you posted.

No, it doesn't make a difference what wire goes were in that connector.

Did you check if your getting 120 volts at your igniter, with a volt meter, when your oven is on?

Jake

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Thanks Jake for your reply, the complete model # is RGB740BEH3CT. First I have to purchase a volt meter. I did replace the igniter and still no glow. If it's not getting 120 volts, what should be my next step? I'll check that first, then get back to you. Thanks for taking the time to reply.

Appreciated Roosta56

Hi Jake, back again. I tested the plug with a voltage meter and no reading at all. Could you help me with the next step.

Thanks Roosta56

Thanks,

Ok, if there's no voltage to your igniter glow bar, then the problem is your control board is bad.

Here's the one for your model you can order:
Manufacturer's Number: WB27K10220



Its #129 here:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImageP...&titleID=00002

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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Hi Jake, Well I changed the control board and still no voltage to the igniter plug. What I did find is that the 3 wires coming from the control panel did have power going to them, by unplugging them just before they go into the igniter plug (has 1 wire) and the gas valve (has 2 wires). I noticed that the wires going to the igniter plug has 1 wire coming from the control panel and the other coming from the gas valve. So I tested the wire from the control panel to the wire going into the gas valve and I see there is power going into the gas valve, but the 2nd wire coming out of the gas valve going back into the other side of the igniter plug, has no power. I hope you can follow my explaination of what I'm tried to do so far. The bottom line is, I'm guessing that the gas valve must be gone and I'm also guessing that this is something I cannot/should not replace myself, and my next question is if it's worth even trying to have a technician try to replace this part? Again thank you for taking your time and sharing your knowledge with so many people that ask for help.

Roosta56

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Thats odd, its very rare for the gas safety valve to go bad.

How old is your range?

Yea, it would probably cost more for a tech. to come out to replace it than its worth.

If you bought your control board from our links here, you can return it for a full refund, then just invest the money into a new range.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Hi Jake, my stove is about 4 years old. As you can see Jake, the 2 leads on top of the gas valve in the picture one coming from the control panel and the other one going to the other side of the igniter plug, what I did is connected one side of the igniter plug to the lead coming from the panel and connected it to the other lead on top of the gas valve closest to the front of the stove (obviously with the oven turned on), and got a reading. I then connected it to the lead closest to the back of the stove (the wire that is going into the other half of the igniter plug) and no reading? Are you following me so far and am I doing the proper procedure? If I did it the right way, then I'm guessing that it has to be the gas valve. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? Anyways I will try my test one more time. If not, then it's a new stove. I want to thank you for your help and expertise with my on going issue.

Thanks Roosta56

Yes, I follow you.

The way I test it is put my volt meter leads in that connector that goes to your oven igniter glow bar, when the oven is on you should get 120 volts on the volt meter, if nothing and you've already changed your control board, then its the gas safety valve there were the wires connect to.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Hi Jake, I really appreciate you taking the time to assist me with my problem. I guess I'll get a new range. This blog here has help so many people keep from getting rip off. Again Thank You for your help.

Roosta56