GE gas dryer DSXH43GV0 is irregulary heating up. That is, gas dryer has been igniting less and less frequently.
I see from the diagram that there is a coil/booster, an ignitor and a sensor that make up the ignition system. I know how to use a multimeter but need assistance in troubleshooting/determinng which part(s) might be failing/failed.
I have also found that the timer works in the timer mode (0-70 minutes) but not in the "auto" mode (more dry/less dry). In the auto mode it seems to stay stuck in one position and is not advancing. I don't know if the timer communicates to the solenoid to open/close or if regulation is soley through the sensor.
Did this just start happening out of the blue? or has it always taken over an hour to dry a normal load?
Before I recommend buying parts for it, I always want to make sure you don't have a vent restriction where your dryer vents to the outside of your house.
Pull your dryer away from the wall, then take the exhaust vent hose off, then dry a normal load to see if it fixes it, open some windows if you have the dryer inside your house to let the hot/warm air out.
Because if your vent is clogged or restricted, it will cause a no heat/intermittent heat issue as well.
For the auto dry issue, a resistor controls that.
How old is your dryer, if you don't know, then post the serial# and I can tell you, because I don't see where a resister is even available for this model anymore.
When it is running and heating there is hot air coming out of the vent outside (which I check frequently. But I have not pulled it apart right in back to see if there is a partial clog. I will do that. And I have checked to see if our clothes are wetter coming out of the washer. They are not--washer seems to be spinning and draining fine. It must be at least 8 years old. The serial is TT701581W. It is still working so I am not going to run out for parts. Thanks. Sorry it took so long to reply. My bad
You should have a strong air flow out from the outside vent.
Yes, pull it away from the wall then take the exhaust vent hose off and run a cycle, open some windows if your dryer is inside your house or in a laundry room.
If it drys perfect, then we know the problem lies in your vent exhaust to the outside.
Hi there, the vent is a very short vertical stack <5 feet then a 90 out
through the wall and....it is completely clear from the dryer and out
through the vent.
My intuition is that it is the behavior of an aging
thermostat/thermo-sensor. I just still don't under stand the whole circuit,
would help if I had a schematic. What is the chance there is one inside the
housing? Back to my original questions--in the parts drawings I see the
coil/flame sensor, the hi-limit thermostat and a thermostat control. My
deduction is that the thermostat control is a thermostat(s) that senses when
the drum reaches a certain temperature and that the heat selector switch
determines the limit? How does that sound? Don't worry, I won't start
replacing parts until something really fails.
Michael
You should have a schmatic inside the console.
See this is the problem, the high-limit thermostat will short cycle your heat is the air flow because semi-rectricted.
The cycling thermostat just turns the heat off/on at the set temperatures, like on at 120 degrees, off at 180 degrees.
So actually you should take the temperature of your dryer to check for these readings, with no clothes in the drum.
Did you pull your dryer out from the wall, and do what I recommended in my previous post? You will need to do that at any rate to check your dryer temps.
I checked the venting thuroughly but didn't have to pull it out from the wall.
I installed it in a way that allowed me to vent out the right side before turning up and can access the right side and the vent behind a panel--without pulling the dryer out from the wall.
So I was able to check the that their are no restrictions back into the dryer toward the burner (I stuck my hand into it and ran it with no extra venting) and inspected the rest of the stack--again no restriction.
Where and how do I check temperatures?
Thank you, Michael
ps--in regard to the timer, it seems like the auto mode is just mechanically stuck, ie, it doesnt advance, but in the timer mode it works fine, so unless it it part of the heating problem, I won't worry about it until it fully breaks.
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