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Thread: GE-WWA5600BAJAD weak agitation

  1. #1
    gtkenny is offline Member
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    Default GE-WWA5600BAJAD weak agitation

    I believe I have diagnosised the problem to be what one web page calls the drive block in my agitator assembly. During agitation I can see the center rod spinning at the velocity i would expect but the black rubber piece (w/the 20 splines) and white plastic agitator are spinning much slower. I suspect the black rubber piece was originally much tighter and/or glued to the rod but has since come loose (in fact when i left the agitator off now the black rubber piece stays stuck inside versus remaining on the drive block.

    I have the drive block on order now but I don't see how to remove the old one. One thread posted on here suggests hitting it up with a hammer. The top of the spline has a 20 point star head that I would have thought would be used to remove it. Is this not true? Hitting it with a hammer doesn't seem so simple, but if that's what I gotta do!




  2. #2
    aaastan is offline Appliance Tech
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    A small 3 pound hammer with a short length chisel has worked for me.
    These can be stubborn--hit the aluminum piece from underneath using the hammer/chisel. Be sure to remove the black rubber under this agitator spline before installing the new spline.

    There was one occassion that I had to cut the aluminum block with a grinder and spread it open with an old screwdriver. Not fun.

    John

  3. #3
    gtkenny is offline Member
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    Default just to clarify

    Thanks for the reply, i'll give it a go when the part gets here.

    When you say to remove the black rubber under the spline b4 installing the new spline do you mean that i should remove that as well b4 hammering up on the old spline?

    thanks for the clarification...

  4. #4
    gtkenny is offline Member
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    Default not budging

    I have hammered and hammered and the thing won't budge.

    I was wondering if there is a recommended sealant/glue to try to use to just reattach the old rubber black piece to the drive block. If something could bond strong enough I wouldn't have to replace the whole thing. I tried a glue i picked up from home depot that is supposed to bond rubber and metal but it didn't work. I'm trying silicone now. I'll have to let it cure and see if it holds. Any other recommendations?

  5. #5
    jeff1's Avatar
    jeff1 is offline Appliance Tech - Moderator
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    Any other recommendations?
    Sawz-all!

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    NEW Appliance Repair Aid

    http://www.jrappliance.ca
    JRAppliance

  6. #6
    gtkenny is offline Member
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    Default ok, sawz-all...

    So I have a reciprocating saw with a blade that should cut through metal... how would you recommend i cut through this bad boy, though? If I saw at the side will that really get me anywhere? I can't cut all the way through b/c the center rod needs to stay intact.

    Once I get this piece out, will the new one simply slide on or does it require some special magic/luck/tool to get it on?

    Thanks.

  7. #7
    jeff1's Avatar
    jeff1 is offline Appliance Tech - Moderator
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    Once I get this piece out, will the new one simply slide
    Normally yes....wire brush the splines and a little dish/sink soap helps.

    or does it require some special magic/luck/tool to get it on?
    Luck, yes. Hammer and piece of wood has helped me a few times.

    how would you recommend i cut through this bad boy, though?
    I had one that was frozen to the tranny shaft ( same as yours ) and I cut straight down on the one side ( as close to the tranny shaft as possible ) to remove as much as possible and then split that side with a hammer and cold chisle to remove it.

    jeff.
    http://www.applianceaid.com/
    NEW Appliance Repair Aid

    http://www.jrappliance.ca
    JRAppliance

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