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  #1  
Old February 7th, 2007, 06:26 PM
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Default GE Chest Freezer not working

I have a GE chest freezer that is not working. The light inside works but no sounds or any sign of anything else working. I used a multimeter to verify power is getting to the thermostat. I ohm'ed the thermostat and it shows infinity when in the off position but 0 when it's turned on. The freezer is a friends and she says it hasn't worked in a couple of years. What should I test next? The model number is FCM15DMBWH and the serial number is MD166973.
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Old February 8th, 2007, 01:30 AM
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Please check your model# again, I can't get anything to pull-up on that one.

Try to bypass that control thermostat, jump the wires together and see if the compressor comes on.

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Old February 8th, 2007, 12:22 PM
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Ok, I double and triple checked the model # and it is exactly as I typed earlier. It's crisp and bold on the label right above the access panel. It's FCM 15DMB WH. Not sure if the spaces matter. I also had trouble on GE's website trying to find out anything using that model #.

I bypassed the thermostat and nothing happened, nothing at all. No noises or sounds at all. What next? Thanks for your help.
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Old February 8th, 2007, 12:33 PM
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I'm sorry but I can't locate that model# anywhere, and without getting online information from the model#, I'm working blind.

But I would check your compressor relay for continuity with an ohm meter, a bad compressor relay/overload would make the compressor not come on at all.

This is from Jeffs www.applianceaid.com site:
You can use a test cord to help check the compressor and this also will help with the amp test. If the compressor checks ok and you want to install a replacement start relay. You will need to find out which winding is which. You will need an ohm meter to determine the windings. First check to see if you have windings in the compressor. Then check to see if they are grounded. If the compressor has windings and they are not grounded, you can find which winding is which. Check for grounded windings by reading from each terminal to a good ground on the cabinet. Read from the top terminal to the lower left terminal. Read from the top terminal to the lower right terminal. Read from the lower left terminal to the lower right terminal. Write down the resistance of each reading as you go. The highest reading you get will be the run and start winding of the compressor in series with each other. The other terminal left will be the common terminal. Read from the common terminal to each of the other terminals. The terminal with the lower resistance will be the run winding. The higher resistance the start winding. Using the original style relay is always preferred, but using a general replacement can "get you by" if needed.

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Old February 8th, 2007, 12:51 PM
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Can you give me some instructions on testing the relay?
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Old February 8th, 2007, 08:51 PM
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Here's a couple of pics if they help. Between which of the three wires on the compressor relay do I check continuity and what numbers should I get from that?

GE Chest Freezer not working-imag0001.jpg

GE Chest Freezer not working-imag0002.jpg
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Old February 9th, 2007, 01:45 AM
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Someone has worked on this before? Thats not the original relay that comes with the freezer.

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Old February 9th, 2007, 06:00 AM
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My friend tells me that within 6 months of buying it, the compressor went out and it was replaced but they lost all their food in it. Then about another six months later, it quit again and has just sat there since then. They never called anyone back out to look at it. That's been about three years now.
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Old February 9th, 2007, 08:01 AM
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Just realized after re-reading my post, I made it sound as if the compressor went out twice. That's not what I meant. Let me rephrase: after six months of buying the freezer, the compressor quit and was replaced under warranty, then about six months or so later, the freezer quit working and has sat like that for the last three years. There, maybe that's a little clearer...lol. Thanks for any help you can give me.
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Old February 9th, 2007, 12:56 PM
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That compressor has a 5 yr. parts and labor warranty on it, you are still within 5 years, Contact GE to have a tech. come out and order a new one again, and this time make sure he also orders the original relay/overload assembly, that one thats on there I bet is what made it go bad so quick.

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