I read most of the posts to date on the water dispenser problems. I am new to certain types of household repairs, having let my better half manage them for years. I need to walk through the problem, what I've tried so far, and decide what to do next. I have not done anything more than change wall outlets electrically--and my last attempt at plumbing left me needing to sweat a copper pipe for the first time.

Per my daughter, water stopped coming out of the water dispenser yesterday. I cleaned the glass holder with vinegar last Saturday (hard water here). The ice maker auger is still working and dispensing. Water is getting to the icemaker. The water filter light went "red" on Saturday and I have three filters ordered.

I started by pulling the water filter. No water came out of the dispenser and it was very silent. Just a single click from the lever.

I then took apart the tubing going from the filter to the door (unscrewed the nuts). Water came down from the door-sided tubing but not forward from the filter area.

I separated the copper tubing from house-side water source from the plastic tubing to the icemaker/water and got a shower from the house end of the water line--no back flow from the fridge.

I don't hear anything like a pump anywhere when I depress the water dispenser. The icemaker did fill but sounded wimpy and gurgled. This was after I took the tubing apart so there probably was air in the line.

Should I hear something electrical in the door (or elsewhere) when I dispense water? I just never thought about it before. I did have to replace a relay six months ago. I didn't see anything that looked broken in the wires at the bottom of the freezer door by the hinge when I looked. The light bulb works. I didn't have the lock-out switch on.

Is the repair manual easy for a new-to-repairs person? Are there any other "trouble-shooting"/easy fixes that I've overlooked? How do I tell whether its a "water line" problem like a pump or intake valve-- versus an "electrical" problem like the wiring harness? What should I look at next?

Thank you.

Its possible the water side of your water inlet valve is bad, but you would need a volt meter to check for 120 volts at the valve connector when you press the water dispenser lever.

Whats the model# of your refrigerator? Its located inside the refrigerator section on the upper right side wall.

Jake

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kscs22Qfwh01
The ice maker is filling better now that the air is out of the line, if that makes any difference--still no pump or other sound with the water dispenser.
Thanks.

Thanks,

Also when you push your water dispenser lever in do you hear a click sound?

Open your freezer door then push-in on your water dispenser lever, you should hear a click sound, like a switch. Don't worry water won't come out with the door open, then try your ice dispenser lever to see if you hear that same switch click sound.

Here's the parts diagram for your model:
KSCS22QFWH01

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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The intake valve was OK. Then on to the harness.

The mesh protection sleeve over the wires was absolutely in perfect condition (saved it and took pictures to try to deal with KitchenAid). Two wires were cut straight through with no sign of wear. The cuts were clean, including through the wires. This is a cut that would only have come by the assembler using a forceps or other tool on inserting the harness that actually cut the wires. It is too clean--an absolutely straight cut.

The wires involved are stranded (not solid copper) and they were cut straight through. This is not a wear break. This is NOT a "pinching" by the HINGE ON the door. This was cut at time of manufacture and is A MANUFACTURING DEFECT!!!!!!

The breaks (two of the wires--purple and white) were very close to the entry point in the door. Repair was by splicing, wrapping and holding one's breath.

Pulling the door gasket looks to be a very bad experience waiting to happen. Replacing the door is outrageous in cost.

This is very disappointing for a higher end manufacturer in a cabinet depth stainless steel refrigerator.

Thanks for all your help with this.

Glad you found what was happening. Yes, this issue you found is very unusual, Its good that you took pictures to show KitchenAid.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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