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  #1  
Old June 9th, 2008, 02:25 AM
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Default Kitchenaid Superba Icemaker KSRS22F /KSRB22F

Hi
We have an 8 year old Superba side by side with icemaker at the top of the freezer, not in the door and no optical sensor. I've been reading through the various related threads for weeks and have even gone so far as to buy a completely new icemaker assembly, but nothing I have tried so far has worked.

I suspect that the problem might be related to a new water filter that I bought and installed around the time that the icemaker stopped working -- though the water comes out through the new dispenser just fine. I see that there are 2 hose connections at the back of the filter housing. Could it be that the icemaker one of these is clogged, but the water one is working ok?

I'm really stumped here. I have checked the water spillway into the icemaker and it is clear. I also removed and checked the hose that runs from the top of the freezer and it is also fine. There seems to be either a clog upstream of the hose connection up to the freezer at the rear or perhaps the pump for that hose simply isn't working. I also suspected that the rakes were not cycling correctly, but when I filled the trays with water manually, the ice was harvested ok, but very little water was replaced after the ice was ejected. This makes me think that the pump is either not working correctly or that there is a clog. The cycle itself doesn't seem to be working correctly unless I manually fill the trays with water. Is there a sensor to deactivate the cycle if the trays do not fill entirely?

I "tested" for resistance on the 3 points mentioned in another thread, but the results seemed to be about the same on all 3 points -- which doesn't seem right, but maybe that it is just my limited knowledge or inadequate testor. I did find resistance to be approx the same on all 3 points -- so I assume that resistance means that there is something connected across the 2 points.

Any suggestions? I'm just about ready to hire a tech to look at this, but I suspect that it will cost a couple hundred $ and I'm both cheap and stubborn.

Thanks for anything that Jake or anyone else might be able to suggest
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Old June 9th, 2008, 11:56 AM
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Hi,

Is your water pressure that comes out your front water dispenser good and strong? Not Weak?

When the ice maker refills with water, about how much goes in, the ice maker tray mold? 1/4 full? 1/2 full?

You can put your fingers in the ice maker tray mold to feel how many ice cube slots have water in them.

Report back what you find.

Jake
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Old June 9th, 2008, 12:23 PM
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Hi

Thanks for your quick reply.

Water pressure coming out of the main / front water dispenser is good and pressure coming into the fridge from the wall is good too.

When I first noticed that the ice wasn't being made (a couple of months ago now) there was no water going into the trays at all and this continued right through me replacing the whole icemaking unit, trays, processor, etc -- but last night there was a slight trickle into the trays -- about 1/4 full.

I don't think that 1/4 portion was ever ejected from the harvester.
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Old June 9th, 2008, 12:25 PM
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I didn't make a point of checking all of the cubes within the tray last night, but I did check multiple cubes and they all appeared to somehow have the same amount of water / ice in them. I would have thought that the ones closer to the water inlet would have more water in them with overflow from one to the next, away from the source
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Old June 9th, 2008, 06:45 PM
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Ok,

You need to pull your refrigerator out from the wall, then un-mount your water inlet valve that your water supply line hooks-up to, then take off the plastic tubing underneath it and jump T & H on your ice maker module to start a cycle to see how much water comes out from the valve directly, get a container or something to catch the water in.

Short T & H with an insulated piece of wire ( 14 gauge) with the ends of the wire bare approx 1/2" to run the motor, as seen here:
http://www.applianceaid.com/icemaker-modual.html

Make sure to take the jumper wire out at about a 1/4 to 1/2 a revolution.

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Old June 10th, 2008, 08:37 AM
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Thanks a lot Jake. Lots of useful information there

I was briefly checking the water intake valve the other night, but I can't remember the connections on it. Do you happen to have a picture of it and / or do you know if the icemaker water intake goes through the filter on this model? If it goes through the filter, I assume that I would want to disconnect the end that comes out of the filter (at the water intake valve) before jumpering T&H. Is that right? Thanks again for your time
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Old June 10th, 2008, 11:30 AM
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Yes, but I'll need the complete model# of your refrigerator.

KSRS22F /KSRB22F is just a partial model#.

The full model# is located inside your refrigerator section on the right or left side upper walls.

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Old June 10th, 2008, 12:15 PM
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Thanks again
Model number is KSRS22FGBL02 -- from Sears Canada

I think that the water valve illustrated below is similar if not identical to the one on our fridge, but I'm not home right now to verify (at work)

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Old June 10th, 2008, 12:55 PM
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If you have a water dispenser and an ice maker, then that is not the water valve you have. Yours will be a double solenoid. The smaller line on the valve will be the one for the ice maker. Since you're getting good water flow out of the dispenser, I doubt the problem is in the water filter. If you're not sure about jumping the ice maker into a forced harvest cycle, then you can remove the two wires on the ice maker solenoid and hit it with 110VAC. That will show you how much water is comming out of the valve.
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Old June 10th, 2008, 02:50 PM
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Thanks for the additional information, Redbeardnmt.

I'll try your solenoid idea if Jake's forced harvest suggestion doesn't work out. I don't mind waiting for it to cycle through, as long as it does so.

I'll also check the control for amount of water fill. I haven't checked this since I installed the replacement parts b/c the icemaker hasn't cycled through yet.
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