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#1
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Having trouble w/ a KitchenAid KSRP22FN icemaker.
I have taken the ice maker unit out and jumpered "T" and "H". It starts to cycle then I remove the jumper and replace the unit. The ice maker then continues to refill and make ice until the ice bucket on the fridge door fills up.At that point the ice maker stops making ice and (here's the problem) it never starts making ice again. The ice maker fills and freezes but will not dispense at this point. I've checked the LED codes on the ice level sensor and get the "2 flashes, wait a second, 2 flashes". Also found that with LED sensor flapper held down the LED remains "on solid" and with LED sensor flapper down and freezer door closed switch held in there is no LED lit. Icemaker fingers are facing front at 10:00. Any ideas? |
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#2
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Hi,
It sounds like your ice maker module is malfunctioning, the ice maker fingers should be resting at 2 or 3 o'clock. Here's the ice maker module for your model you can order: Manufacturer part#W10122536 is RepairClinic item#1373103 W10122536Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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To clarify my orientation: With ice maker motor facing me the fingers are at 2:00, as the unit sits in the fridge the fingers point to the front of the fridge.
Seems to me to be either a relay is not reset when ice bucket goes below full or that a water-frozen (?) solenoid is malfunctioning. AC |
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#4
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Ok, 2 o'clock is fine.
Feel inside your ice maker tray, Can you feel ice in all the 8 cube slots? If so, then your water inlet valve solenoid is fine. It would either be your optics malfunctioning or the ice maker module malfunctioning still. I've seen both go out quite a bit in the last 8 years myself, even though the optics test can check good, you can still have an intermittent problem. I would suggest ordering both the module and optics, then return the one you don't need, when you order parts from our links here, you always have a 30 day FULL REFUND policy, even if the part was installed. Here's the optics for your model: Manufacturer part#4389102 is RepairClinic item#921526 ![]() The optics can test good, but still malfunction intermittently, thats why I say order both, its fooled me too, were they tested normal, but then after I replaced the module, it was doing the same thing, then I replaced the optics and WHOA!!! You see what I'm saying? ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Does anyone have wiring schematics for the icemaker? I'd like to know a little more about what tells the icemaker to harvest. Seems to me there should be a low level in ice bin, closed freezer door, ice bin in place and frozen ice in the ice mould. Where are these circuits/switches integrated? Is it the icemaker, the photoeye?
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#6
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Should be a wiring diagram in here:
http://www.applianceblog.com/manuals...ce4322658A.pdf The optics photoeye should control the fill level for the ice bucket. Last edited by ApplianceBlog; July 15th, 2008 at 02:32 PM.. |
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#7
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Finally got the job done. The culprit was the motor assembly. I used to work around cam timers - and the unit is basically a cam timer.
Found the cause of problem thru trial & error - I hate that. I shoulda been clued in by the fact that I could jumper out the motor unit, kickstarting it into producing ice, then it would run a little while and stop. In my old cam timer days this would tell me that the revolution of the cam never advanced to a 'complete' or 'home' position. The photo eye always displayed a good code but I thought it was bad cus I could always get the motor assembly to restart. Btw - on the motor there's a delicate little (exposed) switch that either became out of alignment or pitted. I hate performin pluck & chuck but it got the thing workin fast. And resolved background noise at home... |
| The Following User Says Thank You to irondan44 For This Useful Post: | ||
indyanne (October 1st, 2008) | ||
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#8
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Excellent, good job being persistent and fixing it.
![]() I hate trial & error too, but when I first started doing appliance repair 21 years ago, that was the norm for me as well, till I got the hang of it. ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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I am hijacking this thread to say thanks for the trial and error. I've been troubleshooting my KSCS23INSS00 ice maker. After several tests of the optics and using the jumper to start the harvest several times, I think you have described exactly what is going on. Optics seem to be just fine.
The ejector can be set back to 2:00 home position using the jumper, and the mold fills up with water just fine on this manual reset. But, that's it -- the ejector never returns back to 2:00 on its own. I will let it run on max cool today and see if I have cleared up the problem with the tinkering I have done. If it's making ice by tonight, great. If not, I'll replace the module. I will be disappointed to have had this fridge only a little over a year and have to replace the module, but that's what it looks like I'm going to have to do. Again, thanks. Quote:
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