Jake- First off thanks for hosting this site. You are a Godsend to many of us out here!

My problem:

Dishwasher completed full cycle last night w/ no problems. Tonight w/ full load it is as if the dishwasher has no power. No lights, no nothing when buttons on the control panel are pushed. Breaker is OK and there is 120V at the outlet when checked with a volt meter. What are your thoughts to troubleshoot the problem?

Thanks again this site rocks!

Charlie

Thanks Charlie,

Its likely your thermal fuse is bad.

You can ohm it for continuity with an ohm meter to see if it has no continuity. Thats what I always do.

Here's your tech. data sheet that explains how to access it, It just snaps on your control board:
https://www.servicematters.com/docs/...%208051291.pdf

Part#675796
Fuse assembly with wire harness


The wires must be replaced with it that it comes with.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Jake-

Thanks for the reply and I was hoping the problem would be as simple as you described. Unfortunately the fuse appears to be OK and has continuity.

Suggestions for step 2? I hope this doesn't get expensive parts wise .

Thanks again for your help.

Charlie

By the way, I did check the junction box underneath the right side of the dishwasher door. Power is 120V at the wire nuts just as it is at the wall outlet. So we can rule that one out. Sigh.

Charlie

One more piece of info... I just checked the door switch as well. It appears to be OK - good continuity when door is closed, no continuity when the door is open.

Starting to sound like the control board. The dishwasher is 7 1/2 years old and we have already had to replace the control board once (of course a soon as the dishwasher was out of warranty!). The current board is 2 1/2 years old or so.

Thanks again.

Ok, then if the thermal fuse is good, but its still like dead, no lights or nothing, I always check the voltage to the were the main power comes into your dishwasher in the junction box under your tub, should be in the front on the left or right side, then I check for 120 volts at the door switch and check for 120 volts at the thermal fuse and control board.

If your getting 120 volts everywhere and nothing in the control panel is lighting up, its likely a dead control panel, since you already replaced the control board a couple years ago.

On your model# there should be 2 more letters and a number after the "H" at the end of your model, please post those, thanks.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

OK - I have checked everything you said. I have 120V at the junction box, I have 120V at the door switch and I have 120V at the thermal fuse (both sides). Using the tech data sheet I even checked the resistance to all of the devices connected to the control board (motor windings, soap dispenser, sensors, etc.) All resistance values checked out to spec. per your data sheet.

I realize I misspoke in in an earlier note... I replaced the control panel not the control board just after the warranty ran out. I am referring to the large plastic console cover that contains the touch pad keys that are used to operate the dishwasher. That is the part that is relatively new. I am beginning to think my dishwasher is a hunk of junk.

The full model number of the dishwasher is KUDS25SHWH1. It is White.

Thanks again.

Ok, thanks.

So if your getting 120 volts at all those components, then its likely your control board has gone out.

Here's the control board for your model you can order:
Electronic control assembly


Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Jake-

Here is where it gets bizarre - I remembered that I had stashed away in my attic the old Control Panel that I replaced 2 1/2 years ago. The plastic panel is broken but the keypad membrane and electronics were still OK. So I plugged that into my dishwasher and everything worked. The lights and the various keys all responded appropriately. So, I said to my self that I need to order a new control panel/keypad combo.

I decided to put my old defective control panel back on my dishwasher until the new one arrives. Well low and behold everything is now working. It must have been some sort of loose connection, or a need to unplug the control panel from the control board. Whatever it is, the dishwasher ran through a full cycle last night and all appears to be OK.

Whatever you had me do - fixed whatever was wrong. I will keep my fingers crossed that this problem doesn't re-occur. Thanks again for your patience and contributing to this great web site.

Charlie

Ok, sounds good Charlie.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances