Icemaker enthusiasts;

First, thanks for the site..joined w/premium membership; this has been a great site for me!

Anyway the icemaker on my Kitchenaid KS2G25FKWH05 does not work...no ice. Here's what we know:

1. Can jumper the icemaker to rotate the blades using the normal procedure (interestingly I have to manually push the door switch hard to make it...but thats another problem!)

2. The optical IR boards etc work fine..again you can get the icemaker to run w/normal jumper procedure

3. No water out...I measured voltage across the water valve IM side..no power. Tried switching the IM and cold water power; the cold water solenoid power does work....valve did not work....failed?

** Note: there is water in the IM water line; I pulled and can drain it..no blocks.

** Note2: HOWEVER there is no power to the IM solenoid when I jumper and rotate the icemaker. I DO get power at the IM testpoints N and V but NO POWER at the white and tan wires at the solenoid....

Question...while this seems to indicate the water valve is bad not getting power to it also seems to be another failure....perhaps in the "Electronic Defrost Control and Water Filter Indicator" Board? I notice from wiring diagrams that the tan wire from the IM goes to that board.

Thanks again; yep its strange....much oblidged and happy holidays!

Hi,

Please double check your model# again, that one doesn't seem to pull up.

Did you ohm your black thermal fuse for continuity, thats integrated in your wiring harness to your ice maker?

Jake

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Jake; Thanks for the reply. The model number is KSRG25FKWH05; I ohmed out the black wire containing the "fuse" and it is good....which is confirmed from when I test the IM and the mold gets hot.

Thanks, Ed

Thanks Ed,

Now when you tested for 120 volts at your ice maker solenoid on your water inlet valve in the back of your refrigerator, did you jump L & V test points on the ice maker module with a jumper wire while you used your volt meter to test for 120 volts at your ice maker solenoid on your water inlet valve?

Jake

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Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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Jake; Yes. I jumpered the IM to make it cycle and measured the voltage across the IM testpoints N and V; I did it again and measured at the solenoid but got zero volts...thats why its weird and makes me wonder about the electronuc defrost control board....

Thanks, Ed

PS Happy New Year!

No Ed, I asked if you installed a jumper wire in L & V then tested for 120 volts at your solenoid. Not N & V.

L & V is what sends 120 volts to the solenoid to make the water come out.

Happy New Year!

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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Jake; I did both; I confirmed 120V at the testpoints and then confirmed zero volts at the solenoid. Thanks, Ed

OK..new data. I finally understood what you wanted..jumpering something not in the manual. Interesting; jumpering L and V as you direct supplied ~ 40 VAC to the solenoid. I tried this twice; I also measured the voltage at testpoints N and V while jumpering L and V as well as the solenoid 2X..again 40 VAC.

However I then ran the usual cycle initiated by jumpering T and H (and closing the door and making the light beam I did get 120VAC at both testpoints N and V on the icemaker as well as 120VAC at the solenoid.

I'm not sure why the test you described did not supply 120VAC but where I am the water valve is bad.

Thanks.

Well whats interesting is that you only got 40 volts at the water valve solenoid, you should of got 120 volts there. So I'm not sure replacing the water valve will fix it. I'm leaning more towards the module or the complete ice maker assembly.

Here's the ice maker module kit for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 8201515


Complete icemaker assembly



But it would be a good idea to order the water valve just in case:
Here's the one for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 4389177



You can always send back the part you don't need within 30 days for a full refund.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Jake; Thanks...I ordered the water valve; we'll see how that goes.

One question; the part shown has an additional water line attachment mine does not have...the single "feed" portion thats attached to the bracket (and has its own bracket)..whats that? Thanks, Ed