I would appreciate any help I can get. As stated above, I am handy, but not so much with appliances. My ice machine has completely stopped working. Here is what I have done:
*The water dispenser works fine with good pressure
*Ice tray is completely dry - nothing frozen
*Water tube (checked only where it enters into freezer) appears free and not frozen
*Pulled filter and reset (display states 27% life on filter) - I assume it's ok since I am getting water out of the dispenser.
*LED light blinks twice when opened and the flap blocks the beam. when the flap is closed, but the freezer door is open, the LED is constant. When door is closed and flap closed, the light is off.
*Temperature in freezer (per display in frig) reads between 0 and 5.
I'm about to turn off the whole unit (since you can't turn off just the freezer) to see if something is frozen.
Can someone please give me some direction? Other than checking to see if the line is frozen (by turning unit off), I am not sure what parts to start replacing. Thanks in advance.

Ok,

We first need to check for water flow through your dual inlet water valve in the back of your refrigerator, were your water supply line hooks up to it.

Its common for one side to go bad and the other side to keep working.

You can jump the L & V on the module and that will send 120 volts to your water inlet valve and see if water comes out from your fill tube in the back of your ice maker. Just make a jumper wire.
OR
If you want to test the water inlet valve alone, the water inlet valve is in the back of your refrigerator were your water supply line hooks up to it.

You can buy a test cord here:
Test Cord - 110 Volt With Alligator Clips


or you can probably get a cheater cord like this at any hardware store in your area if you don't want to wait on ordering it.

Here's the dual water inlet valve for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 2315533

2315533

Also look at the thread we have here, we explain how to remove the ice maker and do the dual water inlet valve test:
Testing ice maker water supply at the solenoid

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Thanks Jake, but remember, I am appliance (and electrically) challenged. Let me see if I've got this straight. First, I'm off to Home Depot to buy a test cord. Then I apply the alligator clips to L & V on the module with the test cord plugged in. Do I need to unplug the whole refrigerator (filled with food)? This will "jump" the system and allow me to see if water comes out the fill tube?
I'm off to HD to get the test cord.
Thanks

No you apply the alligator clips to the ice maker side of your water inlet valve in the back of your refrigerator.

Yes, unplug your refrigerator first.

Using the test cord just lets you check the water inlet valve itself, not through the ice maker system. But thats fine.

Just make sure you remove the ice maker assembly from your freezer first, then put that plastic cup up below your black rubber fill tube that hangs down from your freezer ceiling to catch any water that may come out.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Ok, thanks for your patience. I'm using this thread for directions:
Also look at the thread we have here, we explain how to remove the ice maker and do the dual water inlet valve test:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainfor...ad.php?t=14904

Home depot did not have the tester cord, so I simply purchased an extension cord that I will strip and use. Do I need to be concerned with which terminal I cannot the "hot" vs "neutral?
Also, is it critical that I remove the whole icemaker before testing this?
Thanks
bob

No, you don't have to worry about the "hot vs "neutral"

You don't have to remove the ice maker assembly, if water comes out of your black rubber spout, it will just go into your ice maker assembly.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Jake - Ok, so I jumped the solenoid without electricuting myself . The solenoid immediately made noise and water dispensed into the ice tray. So, where do I go from here? Thanks again for your patience.

I'm thinking that it may be the transmitter/receiver optics. When I close the flapper, I still get the two quick blinks, but every once in a while I'll get a solid light only for a few seconds. Then it is back to the two blinks.

Ok, yes, then it does sound like the optics are bad.

Here's the cheapest price I found for your optics kit:
Manufacturer's Number: 4389102

4389102

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Thanks Jake. I have one final question (I hope). Do I need to manually remove the ice that is in the tray (from when I jumped the solenoid), so that once it starts to work it doesn't overflow?