[FIXED] Ktrs25kawh10 - ApplianceBlog.com

***Vikings*** · #1 May 25th, 2009, 10:49 AM

I have a KitchenAid that is not cooling or freezing well. The fridge is leaking a little water. I removed the back panel in freezer to check the coils and drain (top freezer model). I was able to get water down drain and into fridge cup, to floor reservoir. The fan in the back of the freezer behind the panel is not running though and there is quite a bit of frost build up back there, particularly on left side. The fan at the back of the unit near floor is running.

***Jake*** · #2 May 25th, 2009, 11:37 PM

Hi,

Yes, it sounds like your evaporator fan motor in the freezer above the evaporator coils is bad, you could verify it when a volt meter, and check for 120 volts at that motor.

Here's the evaporator fan motor for your model in case you need to order it(comes with installation instructions):
Manufacturer's Number: 482731

Jake

***Vikings*** · #3 May 26th, 2009, 07:31 AM

Thanks. I will try it out

***Jake*** · #4 May 26th, 2009, 10:38 AM

Ok, sounds good.

Let us know how it goes.

Jake

***Vikings*** · #5 May 27th, 2009, 05:27 PM

No luck. I installed the new fan, plugged in the unit and it's not working. What should I try next? I did not test for 120. If I need to do that next can you describe how I do so. I have a tester, just not sure how to test this. Thanks

***Jake*** · #6 May 27th, 2009, 10:45 PM

Just put your volt meter probes on the evap. fan motor electrical terminals and see if your meter reads 120 volts when your refrigerator is on and running.

Jake

***Vikings*** · #7 May 28th, 2009, 05:30 AM

Jake,
I get nothing when I probe the terminals

***Jake*** · #8 May 28th, 2009, 09:45 AM

Ok, hold the freezer door switch in, or have someone hold it in then test for 120 volts.

If still nothing then ohm your defrost thermostat(bi-metal) for continuity while its frosty(with your refrigerator unplugged), some of these models made by in the early-mid 90's evap. fan motor circuit went through the door switch and/or the defrost thermostat.

Its located on top of your evaporator coil, set your meter on ohm setting, then ohm it for continuity while its frosty.

Report back what you find.

Unplug your refrigerator first!

Here's the defrost thermostat for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 4387503

4387503

Its highly unusual for everything else to be getting power except the evap. fan motor.

Jake

***Vikings*** · #9 May 28th, 2009, 04:56 PM

Jake,
I tested the thermostat and the needle dropped to zero. (I tested it by uncoupling the male/female connectors and sticking prongs into the female holes from the wires running to/from thermostat.) I suppose that means I should order a thermostat? If so, is it possible that I just need to replace the thermostat and the old evaporator fan may still work once I do so?
Thanks!

***Jake*** · #10 May 28th, 2009, 07:04 PM

Yes, when using a analog meter good continuity would make the needle move to the right, if the needle didn't move and stayed at zero, then its bad. You did check it while it was frosty, correct?

If so, then its the defrost thermostat that you need to order.

Yes, you can put your old fan motor back in and return the new one you bought.

Jake

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