Hi- Have a KitchenAid KDRP407HSS11 range. Oven has seemed to taking longer than normal to bake things. Wife did a batch of muffins yesterday. The tops burnt and only took 6 min. I looked inside the oven and saw that the broiler element was on.
Are we thinking that the bake element is bad? If so, how do I access it? I have it pulled the range out away from the wall. I have a VOM and know how to use it.
Thanks
Jim

Hi Jim,

TechnicianBrian explains here how to in post#5:
repair oven bake element
Unplug your range first! I always use a ohm meter to check it, normal ohms is between 11-30.

Here's the cheapest bake element I could find for your model, in case you need to order it:
Manufacturer's Number: 4451175

4451175

Jake

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Thanks Jake. I checked the element and it showed 28 ohms. I have 240 VAC at the bake element. Plugged it in and turned the oven on. Set it to bake at 350 deg. As the oven started up the relay clicked on and I am pulling 7.56 amps at the bake element and 11.75 amps at the broil element. I have an oven thermostat that I put in the box. The oven continued to heat. The thermostat would cycle the bake element on and off, while leaving the broil element burning. The oven dispaly showed that the oven was satisfied at 350 deg. but the temp inside the oven was only 250. The oven continued to heat with the broil element still pulling 11.75 amps well past 500 deg. Same with the Convection bake and the Keep Warm/Bread Proof settings.
Okay, is it a thermostat or a board issue? If it's a thermostat, where is it located? I believe the board is under the gas cooking unit (Under the sheetmetal cover).

OK, it seems both are fine.

I'm not sure whats going on here.

Possibly another tech. or member can pinpoint the problem for you.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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If both elements ohm out, and it looks like they do, I would look at the probe, which is what your calling the thermostat. Its a long metal peice screwed to the back of the oven, looks like a stick. Usually you can pull it thru and unhook it and measure it, it should read about 1100ohms+/- 5% at room temp. Take a lighter and get it hot and see if the resistance goes up and a decent rate. The easiest way to ck a probe is in the console, usually 2 white wires off the eoc/control.
If it's a new range, with a hidden bake element, it will take longer to preheat, newer ovens do use the broil to preheat and even bake on some models.

the complaint I hear is common with a hidden bake element range, it takes longer to preheat because the element must heat thru the metal then the cavity, thats why the broil works more on this model to compensate for the long transfer of heat from the bake thru the cavity, this particular element comes out thru the back, or right side, find the red wires to it. The probe is 4449154, the zodiac control is 4452443/125.00$ at Sear's parts, probably get it cheaper somewhere else.

How old is this unit? Is it still under warranty? That zodiac control is new technology and hasn't been out that long, this might be a covered repair.

Nix the code comments, the zodiac gets rid of an eoc code display. Sounds like a wacky probe, or the zodiac isn't reading resistance of probe correctly.

To get to the zodiac, take knobs off console, open oven door and look for 3 or 4 1/4in screws going up thru console and it should pop right out, FLIP BREAKER OFF

I can fix it- Thanks for working with me on this! Checked sensor. Read 1080 ohms at room temp. Used lighter and ohms run up at a decent rate. Pulled front SS panel to access oven control. Don't see the zodiac part you mentioned. Range came with new house. It is 4 1/2 years old. Serial # XZ4902248 if that helps. Okay, where do we go from here?
Thanks
Jim