Kitchenaid KSCS25INWH01 not defrosting

***johnnyspeed*** · September 1st, 2009, 06:31 AM

Hi, I have a Kitchenaid that has a issue the mod. Is KSCS25INWH01 ser. #ST4432763 the service and wiring sheet is # 2223419v this all started after the refer. Door got left open a little bit over night, I think it is coincidental. The evaporator coil will frost up on the fins and ice up on the sides really bad in about 3 to 4 days after I remove the back cover and de-thaw it with a hair dryer. I have had to do this 3 times now, the freezer set @ 6 degrees and the refrigerator set @ 35 degrees, I have checked the air damper and it is not froze up and is open. The one funny thing that I have notice is the drain in the bottom will freeze closed, I can pour water through it once the little ice plug melts when I am defrosting it. I ran it through the diagnostic check after it was at normal operating temp and everything was ok till I got to step #7 it said the bi-metal was open, the chart said to bypass it, how do I do that? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks JD

***Jake*** · September 1st, 2009, 07:27 AM

To bypass the bi-metal, you would disconnect the wires from it and join them together with electrical tape, or if you don't have quick disconnects on it, you would cut the wires away from the bi-metal and use a wire nut to spice them together.

Jake

***johnnyspeed*** · September 1st, 2009, 09:26 AM

Jake,
I was a little hesitant about cutting the wires so I figured a better start asking some questions. So now when I do the diagnostic check with the bi-metal by passed the heater elements should come on rite? And the read out should indicate the switch is closed now rite? How hot or warm do the elements get? If that all checks out good am I to assume that the bi-metal is bad?
Thanks JD

***Jake*** · September 1st, 2009, 09:44 AM

So now when I do the diagnostic check with the bi-metal by passed the heater elements should come on rite?

Correct.

And the read out should indicate the switch is closed now rite?

Correct.

How hot or warm do the elements get?

It will get pretty hot, don't touch it, it will burn your fingers.

If that all checks out good am I to assume that the bi-metal is bad?

Yes.

Here's the defrost Bi-Metal for your model:
Manufacturer part#2321799 is RepairClinic item#1399517

Jake

***johnnyspeed*** · September 3rd, 2009, 02:39 PM

Ok, I by passed the by-metal and the heater did come on but the read out still said the the switch was open. dose that mean the board is bad?
Thanks JD

***Jake*** · September 3rd, 2009, 03:08 PM

Possibly, can you take off the by-pass and let it get cold again then check it in a couple hours?

After the bi-metal gets cold again, you can also ohm the bi-metal for continuity.

Jake

***johnnyspeed*** · September 3rd, 2009, 03:12 PM

I will try that, I am leaveving for the weekend rite now so it will half to be monday.
thanks for am the help and enjoy your labor day.
JD

***Jake*** · September 3rd, 2009, 03:14 PM

Ok JD, sounds good.

Happy Labor Day Weekend.

Jake

***johnnyspeed*** · September 9th, 2009, 08:10 AM

Ok, after a great weekend I wake up this morning @6am to nice warm fridge and cold freezer. The bi-metal is good and cold, so I tested it for continuity and it had none.
So is the switch is bad and the diagnostic checker is lieing to me?

***Jake*** · September 9th, 2009, 08:45 AM

Ok, then that means your bi-metal is the problem. Order it and change it.

Jake

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