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#1
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I read this thread: [FIXED] KitchenAid DW KUDI01FLSS0 not draining It appears that I have a similar problem to this fellow. We had this Water Inlet Valve #8531669 replaced 3.30.06 when we had a similar problem. Am I on the right track? Also prior to this problem, we were finding that after the washers cycle had completed, we had "grit" remaining on many of the dishes. I'm wondering if these problems are related? Thanks Jake. |
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#2
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So right after the cycle is completed you open the door and its full of water?
If you let it sit overnight without using it, is it full of water again? Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#3
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Yes, after it's cycle has completed and stopped, if you open the door, there is water filling the inside base of the dishwasher. If you then close the door and push the cancel/drain button, the dishwasher will proceed to drain the water, leaving the dishwasher empty of water. If you then wait for about a 1/2 hour, you'll notice that the water is back at the bottom inside of the washer. Is the water inlet valve stuck open?
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#4
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Yes, its the fill valve thats sticking open.
Here's the valve for your model you can order: Part#8531669 Its currently "out of stock" at ALL the online part sites I've checked. So it should ship in about 5-6 days. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#5
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Jake, Was this problem with the sticking valve related to my earlier problem, (prior to not draining properly), to getting "grit" on the dishes after it's cycle had completed? Or if my "check valve" needs replacing? Thanks
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#6
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I don't know if the grit issue is related, but I'd just change the fill valve first and see if that solves the grit issue as well.
Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Jake For This Useful Post: | ||
photousa (February 6th, 2010) | ||
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#7
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For anyone who is reading this post, with a similar issue, (not draining or not filling properly), this was my solution. After I received advice on buying a new water inlet valve, I discovered that in my case, purchasing the new valve was a waste of time. Simply put, I just removed the valve, which is really simple, then dismantled its "thimble like" screen and cleaned all of the grit, rocks and sediment out, (which were completely clogging the thing), reassembled everything, re-installed the valve and presto, everything is working just fine. I wasted a bunch of time buying the valve, then having to go back and return it, (the valve was purchased locally at nearly $60). I'm really not sure how many of these valves are actually cleanable, but mine was. Here's approximately the tools you're going to need:
*3/8" or 1/2" small open end wrench to remove the hot water line *Pliers to remove the spring type pressure clip holding a rubber hose onto the valve *Teflon Tape *Tamper proof small torx bit set *Phillips screw driver Turn off your hot water line and remove your front kick plate. The valve is located at the left hand corner of the machine as you are facing it. Once you get the valve out, you'll use a tamper proof torx bit to remove the metal plate from the plastic filter housing, then use your pliers to pull the inner "thimble" filter from its housing, then clean everything out with a toothbrush, bringing it back to new condition, then re-assemble..re-install using teflon tape on the hot water line, check for leaks and you're done. You've just saved yourself $160.00 at least. |
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#8
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Good job photousa.
![]() Thanks for the added information you provided to others as well. ![]() But keep in mind that if down the road it starts leaking water into your tub, the cause would be that solenoid plunger in the fill valve thats worn out due to the grit/rocks/sediment that got past the screen. When I lived and was a tech. in Arizona I saw this happen a lot, I'd clean the filter screen like you did and it would be fine, then a year or so later it was slowly leaking in the dishwasher tub, the customer would call and say "why is my dishwasher full of water when I didn't even use it?" Not saying yours will do that, but giving you a heads-up. ![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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#9
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Jake, Thanks for the heads-up, good to know this valve can fail even after cleaning the thing out. Today, the unit was making a strange buzzing sound which seemed to come from the valve area. I guess I'll know it's failed when the washer fills with water after shut-off. Might not be a bad idea to have one of these valves on hand and ready when it actually does go.
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#10
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Yes, I agree completely, I'd order the new fill valve "just in case".
![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
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