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  #21  
Old November 7th, 2006, 05:29 PM
tea tea is offline
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I'm getting ready to tackle the bearing problem on my MAH3000. I have a couple of questions.
What are the SK#'s for the bearings?
What comes with the kit mentioned at the top of this thread? The kit looks like it has seals but no bearings.
Which parts do I need to repair this problem?
Thanks for all the great info here.
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  #22  
Old November 8th, 2006, 05:00 AM
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Hi,
1) I cut this from the forum. The bearing skf # are the same for both the Mah300 and Mah400 models. Just go a local bearing supply place and give them those #'s below. If all else fails bring the old bearings and they can match them up for you.



"I have a Mah3000aww, and I try to fix the famous tub bearing problem by myself. I need to buy two tub bearings, the large one and the small one, but I don't know the model number or the part number. I know Mah4000aww use the following bearings:

Mfg. SKF vendor part number is
6207-2RS1/HT51 for large diameter bearing.

Mfg. SKF 6206-ZZ/HT51 for small bearing" These SKF #'s are all you need when you go to the bearing supplier. - Joe




2) The kit, I believe your referring to, is the lip seal kit that has to be replaced when you replacing the bearings. The bearings are not included with the lip seal kit.

3) You need at minimum an outer and inner bearing and a seal kit. Thats assuming that your spindle, tub and other mechanical parts are working (ie electric motor, belt etc.. )
cheers,
Joe
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  #23  
Old December 2nd, 2006, 08:12 AM
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Default outer tub replacement

any tricks to removing the spin basket? I can't seem to get it to budge.
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  #24  
Old December 12th, 2006, 04:53 PM
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Default bearing price sent to 45230

Quote:
Originally Posted by jony51999 View Post
I have the replacement bearings for these. They cost around $100 for the pair, front and rear. e-mail me if interested.
Need bearing set sent to 45230.
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  #25  
Old December 12th, 2006, 04:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jony51999 View Post
Hey Joe, if you have some mechanical ability and a bearing installation tool, it is not too bad. Basically you just have to drive the old bearing and race out, then drive the new one in. Make sure and clean the bearing/seal seat or else it won't go back in due to all of the corrosion. As far as the cost goes, the 2 bearings plus the seal kit will cost you around $105. So, i personally looked at it as I made $100 and it works perfectly. I have the bearing numbers at home, I saved them along with the owners manual, they should have included it with the purchase! If you decide to replace the bearings, let me know and I will get you the SKF #'s.
Can you help me with where I can purchase the bearings and the seal?

Bill
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  #26  
Old October 7th, 2007, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danf View Post
any tricks to removing the spin basket? I can't seem to get it to budge.
I did the tub on my MAH7500AWW at 2433 cycles. I Now have 7220 cycles on the machine. Knock on wood. Are the bearings the same for the 7500, if anyone knows?

To get the shaft out of the bearing, I ended up proping the outer tub up on 4x4 pieces of wood. I tried a hammer. I tried an air hammer. I tried tapping it with a 5 lb hammer. But it wasn't until I gave it a full swing 5 lb hammer that it came free. Oh, use the usual PB Blaster or Liquid wrench.

When I used the full swing, I thought I might ding the splines, but it was hit squarely enough so that it didn't.
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  #27  
Old November 21st, 2007, 06:18 AM
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Unhappy Maytag Neptune Washer

Part number 12002022 Lip Seal Kit

(on National backorder) to fix very poor engineered product, I WILL "NEVER" PURCHASE ANOTHER MAYTAG PRODUCT AGAIN..."EVER" , I have noticed since Maytag came out with this washer the Maytag repairman isn't lonely anymore...This has been the worst experience trying to get what I thought was a major appliance company item repaired!
Maytag has let the American consumer down by becoming a second rate at best company...Sorry I once held them up there with the best...
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  #28  
Old November 29th, 2007, 10:15 AM
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I gave up waiting and bought a new support shaft which came with the updated seal. The new seal no longer is a traditional lip seal style. It uses 2 O-rings.
Manufacturer's Number: 22004081
$117.49 for the shaft with seal.
Can someone tell me if the spacer between the bearings sets the space for the inner races to prevent overloading the bearings when installing the belt pulley? It just seems so flimsy.......
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  #29  
Old February 6th, 2008, 04:08 PM
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Whats all this talk about this "lip seal kit"?? That kit is useless by itself. I have a few extra unopened "lip seal kits" from when we get a drum that gets broken during shipping (it comes with the drum), and in the past few years we have not done a single job that required the lip seal kit by itself.

Someone correct me if im wrong
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  #30  
Old February 7th, 2008, 11:21 AM
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wait wait wait are you guys seriously punching out the old bearings from your tubs and installing new ones from bearing shops?


You are talking about working on the outer tub # 22004465 correct?

I am going to try punching out the bearings of one of my spare broken tubs.


Do you punch from the inside of the tub towards the outside (towards the back of the machine if it was theoretically installed) or opposite?
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