Neptune MAH3000AWW, No cold water - ApplianceBlog.com

nieb · #1 September 21st, 2007, 05:11 AM

My inital problem was no cold/cold on wash and no water on the rinse cycle washer stops. After checking all my hoses water pressure and ensuring screens were free and clear. I concluded that my inlet valve on the cold side was bad.

I have searched the fourm and while all signs point that my inlet valve is bad, I am still not convinced. I conducted a little test. I opened the inside of the washer and swithced the wiring on the hot valve to the cold valve so in the washer would think the cold valve was hot and the hot valve was cold, I figured if the cold valve was truly bad that if the wiring was switched and the hoses switched that I would not have any hot water flow through what was the cold valve. So I turned on the washer cold/cold no water filled, switched to warm/warm, water began to enter the machine, switched back to cold/cold and for maybe 3 to 7 secs water continued to fill than stoped, back to warm/warm water once again filled the machine. So from my little test I have determined that the valve is not actually the issue, it is not receiving a signal to open. So what does this mean? I dunno thats were I have come for advice. Is there anything else between the control board and the valve that affects the valve opening and closing? Please Help

Thank you
Nieb

***redbeardnmt*** · #2 September 22nd, 2007, 12:36 AM

Nieb,

Use a volt meter and check for line voltage on the cold water solenoid. If you have high water pressure it might be enough to hold the solenoid open for several seconds before shuting off. Whats the model number?

Rick

***redbeardnmt*** · #3 September 22nd, 2007, 12:37 AM

I just saw the model number in the title, sorry.

Rick

***Jake*** · #4 September 22nd, 2007, 08:59 PM

Yes, it sounds like the water inlet valve, using a volt meter as Rick mentioned is the only for sure test to see if its bad.

Here's the one for your model(serial starts with 25 or lower)
Manufacturer part#22002294 is RepairClinic item#455038

Here's the one for your model if serial# starts with 26 or higher:
Manufacturer part#22002558 is RepairClinic item#455271

Jake

nieb · #5 September 30th, 2007, 06:28 AM

What should the voltage be? And if the voltage is not high enough wouldn't that indicate it is not getting enough voltage from the control board? I know the valve works because I flipped all of the wires from the hot water valve to the cold water valve and it opens with hot water. So my board would need to be replaced not necessarily the water inlet valve, if I am not receiving enough voltage for the valve to open when it calls for it correct? Is there anything else between the control board and the water inlet valve that causes the two to communicate? I noticed a little round black almost the size of a hockey puck thing with wires going and coming out of it to the left of the control board does that affect this operation at all? I appreciate all of you help so far. Thanks for the pictures Jake the second pic is what my valve looks like.ffice

ffice" />>>

***Jake*** · #6 September 30th, 2007, 10:46 AM

The voltage should be 120 volts to the water inlet valve.

Is #13 here:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImageP...&titleID=00001
what you mean by round hockey puck part?

Thats your water level pressure switch, that only controls the water level in the tub.

Its possible your machine control board may be bad.

Whats the serial# of your washer? As they make 2 different boards for your model.

Jake

***redbeardnmt*** · #7 September 30th, 2007, 12:10 PM

I agree with jake, if you're not getting the correct voltage to the water valve, it sounds like the control board may be bad.

Rick

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