Greetings. I have read may post here and can't get to the root of my problem. It is a model # MDE5500AYW and this is what I have done so far. Vent is not clogged and the dryer blows very hard. I have it out from the wall. Took it apart and ohmed the heater element and it shows no open line. Meter went accross to 0. Then I checked the thermal fuse on the side of the element and it too showed closed, not open. Then checked what I think is the high limit thermostat on the element too and it showed closed. I took the circuit board out and an area near the 4 resistors has been hot. Discoloration. Didn't know if maybe the heater relay on the C/B was bad so I ordered a new circuit board and just installed it and still no heat. What else could be causing the element to not heat up? Could the element ohm out correct but still be bad? Any input Jake would be appreciated. I'll keep throwing parts at it but can't wait to hear what you may suggest.
Thanks, Bill

Thermistor on the blower housing... that should be the cuprit... Here is site for manual and testing info


http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...tml/index.html

Just to add my two cents. During operation check the element for 240vac when you measure across both terminals. If you have that and no heat, the element is bad. If you only have 120vac, unplug the unit, remove one wire then plug the unit back in and turn it back on. Measure each wire with the meter to the chassis and see which one shows no voltage. The black wire comes from the motor centrifigal switch and the brown wire comes from the cycling thermostat and the hi limit thermostat. One of those components is open.

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TechnicianBrian



AllTechAppliance.com

Thanks, I'll try that. I'll keep updating until fixed.
Bill

OK what I did was pull the black wire off the element and started the dryer. Got about 9.7 volts with the meter grounded to chasis. Hooked it back up and then unhooked the brown wire and it was up to low 100's in voltage. It took maybe 15-20 seconds for that wire to show the voltage. Is there a time delay before the power is set to the heating coils. The volts there were bouncing around. Maybe my ground wasn't good enough as I had to also hold in the door botton with my other hand. I'll use tape next time. To check for the 240 over the element, do you place the multimeters leads, one on the black wire and the other on the brown? Will that show 240 if running correctly? Thanks, Bill

Yes if you measure between the brown and black, you should have 240vac (approx). When you say low 100's I am guessing 110vac (approx)? From what you have checked so far, the black wire has no power. That wire comes from the motor centrifigal switch which closes while the motor is running (that way when the motor is off, there is no power to the element) and provides one side of the 240vac. The brown wire comes from the control board and there will be a slight delay prior the relay turning on and providing a current path. If you look at the link Bambiblaster provided for the manual, you can locate the wiring diagram for your model and see what I am describing. The manual will also be handy for getting to the motor to check the centrifgal switch. Recheck your readings (use a non-painted or galvanized surface for neutral) so we make sure you are not wandering off in the wrong direction.

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TechnicianBrian



AllTechAppliance.com

Thanks Brian for that reply. I did just recheck and the brown is 124.5V and the black is 10.7V. I also checked the terminal on the black wire side of the element with the black wire disconnected, and the brown connected and it matched the brown 124.5 meaning the elements has no breaks. I'm now guessing the switch in the motor is bad. My question now is that a part that can be changed out or does the whole motor ass. need replacing? Any ideas on part number. Model MDE5500AYW ser# 34478909ZD. This all makes total sense to me and I wouldn't have thought to check it this way without your input. Very simple machine when you look at how the thing works.
Bill

OK I pulled the motor out and took the black switch apart. There are 2 copper strips in there that when the plastic arm is pushed up, they make contact. The top contact is black and very badly burned. That goes to the blue and black wire on top of the switch. The speeder springs and fly weights in the motor look good with nothing out of place. I'm guessing its the burnt contact in the switch. Any idea on a part number? Thanks again, Bill

Great work! Looks like you found the failed component. The motor and switch must be changed as an assembly, but since you are down to the switch, try and clean the contacts off with a file and see if they will start makin contact. If the pads are burned to the point you cannot file to a clean surface, you will need to replace the whole thing. Look at the photo of the motor at the link above and make sure it looks the same as yours. Based on the serial number you provided it should be the correct one, but want to be sure.

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TechnicianBrian



AllTechAppliance.com

I was thinking the switch could not be had by itself. I couldn't find it any where. I'm not going to fool around with the contacts. I'll just buy a new motor since I have it all apart. I see several listed around for my model. The picture you show looks like it. The numbers I got off the motor are:
6 3713020, model S58NXMPM-6885, 1/4 hp, 115v, 60hz, 4.5 amps, 1725 rpm, 1 phase. I just don't want to get the wrong one. Are you able to tell more from your end? Thanks, Bill