Hello all. My first time posting. I have done some reading here before and was impressed with the topics and quality of help.

I have a Magic chief side by side Model # RC202TV

One month ago I noticed the things in the freezer thawing and the frig. side getting warm. The back wall of the freezer was covered with frost,the fan was constantly on and drip pan was dry. It was clear that the evaporator coils were clogging the air flow. I shut the thing down to let it thaw out.

The back wall was frozen and the drain pipe was clear. I found this forum and did some reading in the time I had. It sounded like a few things could cause this condition Defroster elements, timers, thermostat etc. etc.

The next night all the dripping had stopped and I plugged it back in. Set the settings at B on the refrigerator and freezer dampener at 1. I'm not sure if thats the factory setting but I worked the refrigerator setting up to C and left the freezer at 1. It worked great.

One month later (Yesterday) it ran all day. This morning I checked the drip pan (dry) the wall had just a but of frost on it, but the wall felt solid like there was a block of ice behind it. Its been off with the doors open for 8 hours now and draining water into the pan.

Is there a reset for the defrost control? I don't mind putting some money into this thing it seems they built the counters just for this thing and most the 20 cu.ft. models now are a few inches wider or taller.

Thanks for any help in advance.

Hi,

It sounds like you have a defrost part thats out.

Pull your light shield off, then get a screwdriver and turn your defrost timer clockwise till your refrigerator shuts off, then it will be in defrost.

Your defrost timer#24 is located in the refrigerator section behind the light shield#16 here:


Then wait about 5 minutes to see if your defrost heater comes on, if it doesn't then unplug your refrigerator then you'll need a volt/ohm meter to ohm your defrost heater for continuity.

You have 3 parts which control your auto-defrost system for your model.

Your defrost timer:
Manufacturer's Number: 68233-3



Your defrost thermostat:
Manufacturer's Number: 52085-29



Your defrost heater:
Manufacturer's Number: 61001846



The defrost thermostat is #30 and the defrost heater assembly is #20 here: (you would need to take the food and selves out of your freezer and take off the back access panel inside your freezer to see these):


Jake

Hey Jake

Thank you for the quick response

Due to my injury my wife is set up with ice and coolers for now.
I know she's not going to let me get in to do the repair stuff for a few days.

Past history of automotive electrical repairs tells me that your info
should be just a mater of eliminating a few things.

1st: I noticed this morning that someone has been into this thing before.
The small plate/wire cover that runs a crossed the back wall from the def.timer
to the freezer dampener pn#13 only has one of the required 3 screws installed.
Seeing the green grnd. wire come out of the timer box tells me that it must be grounded.
Also the one screw that is in it, is on the rite/elevated section of plastic wall that is
not likely to allow that short screw to reach the chassis for a grnd.
If this isn't the issue it may have been the cause. I think I will ohm. test this plate
for grnd.

2nd: Then I should get it up and running and do the manual def. timer activation.
If it shuts down should I get voltage at the (? color wires) going to the element?
If there is no voltage suspect the timer assembly components and if there is voltage
test the the element for open loop.
If its not open loop is there a max threshold for resistance?

Thanks again
Dave...............

Basically, I always ohm the heater assembly first, then the defrost thermostat(while its frosty) if both check good, then the heater should come when the defrost timer is in defrost mode.

I worked on hundreds of these at Montgomery Ward, and the heater assembly was the part I changed the most when it had this defrost problem, but I always ohmed it for continuity to make sure.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Well as the title says, but the key is it shutting down also. You were spot on Jake. The heating element was toasted. The install went well except for a few flash backs of replacing wiring under the dash of Fiat's. Thanks again.

Excellent, good job fixing it Dave.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances

Hello
I have the same problem on a HOOVER side by side
The parts are nearly the same.
I changed the toasted defrost heaters 3 times now but always toast again

What could this be?