Hi, I posted a thread back on 1-15-09 about a wet clothes problem. I tried everything you suggested but no luck. I've ordered a thrust bearing kit. Hopefully it helps. I've discovered another possible problem. In testing for the spin speed by lifting the lip up quickly and looking at the spin rate, I've noticed that the tub doesn't always stop spinning when I open the lid. It just free wheels until it stops on its own. After it stops I can rotate the tub by hand either way. Other times it stops after 1 or 2 spins. I can't rotate tub either way by hand. I've noticed this mostly on the final spin on the color settings. I assume this isn't nornal. Why would the brake work some of the time and not others? Is it normal for the brake to not work at certain places in a cycle? Could this be part of the wet clothes problem? I've heard that it isn't real easy to change a brake rotor. PS I have a Maytag top loader Model #MAV6000AWQ.


Jake - Thanks for your advice in advance

Ok, then that thrust bearing kit you ordered should fix the free spinning as well, as the job of that thrust bearing is to engage and release the brake mechanism.

Jake

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Awsome, I was afraid I was going to have to replace a bunch of brake stuff. Is there any tricks or pointers for installing the thrust bearing kit?

PS: I have a lot of admiration for people such as yourself who help others using their God given talents/expertize. What I'm trying to say is THANKS !!!!!!!

Thanks,

It comes with instructions.

No special tools required. Just need a flathead screwdriver to release the C-Clip, and some pliers to put the C-Clip back.

Here is some other links related to it:
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=1236&highlight=thrust+bearing+kit
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=5817&highlight=thrust+bearing+kit
http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/showthread.php?t=6088&highlight=thrust+bearing+kit

Jake

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Jake: I got a thrust bearing kit #12002213 and tried to install. The thrust bearing and spacer which press togeather are different than the 5 washers that were on the machine ( one is a spring washer and one is a thrust bearing). They go above the pulley. Anyway when I put every thing on from the new kit there was no room to get even the thin washer on the end of lower cam. I made sure shaft was pulled down and had the cam all the way up. Is this the right kit? Is it OK to file some of the pulley shaft off on the top side? HELP!!!!!

Yes, thats correct, Its going to be a tight fit for that last spacer, I usually get a flathead screwdriver and wedge it in the shaft indentation and it pulls the shaft down abit more for the last spacer and C-clip go on properly.

Jake

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Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
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I already tried what you suggested. I pushed down on top of agitator and used a small screwdriver to try and pry the shaft down some more using the snap ring groove. I actually bent the tip of the screwdriver. The most I can get is about 3/4 - all of the snap ring groove to show without any washer between cam and snap ring. There is no way that I can see to get any more downward movement of shaft to get even the thin washer on. Any suggestions? As always, Thanks

I don't know what else to suggest, I've had some tough ones myself, but always got them on.

You may need to call a tech. to come and do it for you if cant get it, or have a friend or relative help you.

Jake

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Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
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Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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I did get new thrust bearing kit on but there wasn't any noticeable difference in the wettness of the clothes. They aren't dripping but are heavy. The only other things I can think of is a brake dragging or a transmission problem or maybe a spin bearing. With these issues, shouldn't you hear some sort of noise? Should the entire spin cycle be the same speed or velocity of tube? Seems to be slower for the first half or so and than seems to speed up. If a transmission problem, The machine is less than 10 years old so I think the parts are covered under warranty. Sorry I keep bugging you. Thanks as usual.

What happens is, when it starts spinning, it will spin slow at first while the water is draining at the same time, once all the water has drained out of the tub, it spins faster up to speed.

Now if the water takes longer than 90 seconds to drain, it may spin really slow for almost the whole spin cycle, so check your drain hose, I've seen lots of people either put duct tape around their drain hose where it goes into the drain pipe to keep water from backing up and dripping on the floor, or the drain hose goes into a smaller diameter pipe that cuts down the water flow out of the machine. You cant have duct tape around that, as you need air to stop the siphon effect it can have.

If the water backs up in your drain pipe, then I tell people to call a plumber to rotor it out with a rotor snake.

In Arizona, lots of customers would attach the drain hose to their lawn hose to water their yards in the hot summer months, thats A BIG NO-NO! Unless they have the same diameter hose as the machines drain hose has.

Jake

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Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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