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#1
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Hi guys,
I have read & read threads here & I am ready to test the defrost heater power. Here is what I have done... 1. Jumped L1 & test on ADC board. 1 time relay clicked, but did NOT shut off compressor & do not go into defrost mode. Next time relay did NOT click at all & again no compressor shutdown. Neither time heater started heating that I could feel. I must note here that my heater element is leaning on my drip pan @ bottom left...I would think this is bad yes? I also saw that the hanger for the evap coil was torn at top left & so I re drilled the screw into a new hole & it is now reattached. Element still touching drip pan. 2. Continuity test = 21-22 on defrost heater element = good heater element, yes ? (It was not zero or infinity.) My questions 1. I am ready to test power to the heating element. I have a 3 wire option. Which ones get the test leads ? ( I would think the white/black striped & the yellow one. ) ![]() ![]() 2. Also, how would power be at this point if the ADC L1 test jump does not force a defrost cycle....(or does that point right there confirm my bad board ? ) I am trying to follow your recommended procedures here so I don't have to order parts twice! thanks in advance Kim |
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#2
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Hi Kim,
Don't worry about trying to do the test with the defrost board, it can get confusing and if you accidentally hit a wrong contact, something else can spark and fry. You heating element is fine at 21-22 ohms. Don't worry about it touching the metal drip pan. Ohm your defrost thermostat(while frosty) for continuity. Should read 0 ohms while frosty. Its very important not to start defrosting the evaporator coil till you finish ohming out the defrost thermostat part for continuity. If the defrost thermostat checks good, then the only part left is the defrost board itself. Here's the defrost board for this model - Part#61005988 Manufacturer's Number: 61005988 Remember only on our site can you shop with confidence as all parts ordered from our site come with a 30 day full refund even if it was installed and didn't fix it. Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Jake For This Useful Post: | ||
kimmo9526 (February 18th, 2009) | ||
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#3
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HI Jake...
Defrost Tstat ohmed out at zero, so that's good. It's nice to know those parts are in working order. Nothing worse than replacing one thing after another! Defrost board is now ordered. Should I do a manual defrost after putting the part in or just let it run it's course ? Thanks again Jake...hmmm...now where's that tip jar?? ![]() Kim |
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#4
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Yes Kim, I always do a manual defrost before installing the new defrost board.
Quote:
![]() Jake
__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988 Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990 Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001 Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005 Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here Look-Up & Order Parts Shop Home Appliances |
| The Following User Says Thank You to Jake For This Useful Post: | ||
kimmo9526 (February 18th, 2009) | ||
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