Initially the waher would not pump out all the water after the spin cycle.
After reading that one has to first see if the pump is pumping out all the water in the tub within 90 secs, I let the tub fill fully and it hardly let out an inch of water. Water was splashing over the sides of the top of tub and onto the sides of the outer tub.

Then after 2 mins the whole unit went dead.

I hand drained the water from the tub using a cup. Now, operating the controls will not let any water in. No cycle will work.

I opened up the control panel and saw a fuse back there that had blown. Not knowing the amperage of the fuse, I removed to brown wire to the water level switch and the 2 white wires with green stripes (coming from the check switch and the water valve). These were the wires connecting to the blown fuse. When I taped them together, the circuit breaker for the house blew.

I suspect the high water level and splashing around, made the check switch/water level switch or water valve short out and blew the fuse. The condition has not been recitifed so the fuse blew again.

After recitfying this and making the unit start, I know I have a drainage problem that started all this. The pump does move by hand. I will open and check the hoses for blockages.

Thanks

What do I do now?
How do I make the fuse not blow once again?
Just wait until everything dries out?

I fixed the water stagnating in the tub. It was due to a sock between the inner and outer tubs.
But why did the tub lid fuse blow?
Why does it keep blowing?
Why does one have to replace the tub lid switch and the moniter switch?
Can someone explain this to me?

Hi, the fuse keeps blowing because your lid switch on the same bracket is bad.

You will need a new lid switch assembly, comes with a new fuse as well,
Here's the cheapest one I found for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 22001682



Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Jake:

I have reasons to believe that my lid switch is okay. It moves freely and the resistance between terminals when the white plunger is depressed is 0mohms and more than 200K ohms when the white plunger is let out.

The same occurs for the smaller switch between the white wire with green stripe and the red wire. 0 ohms when depressed and more than 200K ohms when let out.

While I was testing the tub for water drainage, i filled the tub to the top and measured how much time it took for the tub to empty in the spin cycle. It took more than 2 mins and hardly emptied (there was a sock stuck which has been removed). While this test was going on the motor sort of labored trying to spin a tub full of water. It did for 2 mins and then stopped which is when the fuse blew. I think my problem has some serious short some where.

Trust me, you have to replace it with the lid switch assembly I posted above.

I've changed over 100 of these in the last 20 years.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances