My Maytag Neptune washing machine front-loader tub doesn't turn in wash or spin cycle, but I hear the motor: Model # MAH3000AWW. I'm a handy do-it-yourselfer and thought before I started taking it apart, I'd ask for pointers. Thanks in advance.

Hi,

Sounds like possibly your belt broke, pull your washer out from the wall, and take the back panel off to see if your belt is still on the small motor pulley and large drum pulley.

Here's the belt for your washer in case you need to order it:
Manufacturer's Number: 12001788

12001788

Jake

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Thank you Jake; I really appreciated your reply regarding my Maytag Neptune washing machine front-loader Model # MAH 3000AWW. I removed the back and the belt is still on -- there's no rust or anything of the sort inside and the insides are dry and clean (I thought I'd mention that straightaway). I ran a wash cycle, watched, and proved the drum does oscilate, but it did not spin in the spin cycle, it only oscilated through it.

Another thing, I noticed a plastic adjustment piece with numbers that appear to control the belt's tension via re-positioning the motor in slight degrees: my motor's adjustment is at "3." The belt felt so-so tight, but it's not sloppy loose, granted, however, it could be a little bit tighter. Looks like the adjustment comes about by loosening the 1/2" nut and placing a screwdriver in the slit and rotating the piece a number or two. Is that about right?

Next, the "door lock" red light does not come on, which I don't know if that has any bearing on the spin cycle or not, as the drum does oscilate through the spin cycle verses doing nothing. When the complete wash cycle finally ended, the beeper sounded and the machine turned off, yet the inside on the drum was still pretty wet, but there wasn't standing water, only plenty of droplets on the drum. Had there been clothes in there, however, they'd be soaking wet.

Any ideas? I want to thank you again for your advice.

If your belt is on, you should never need to adjust it, so don't worry about that.

These early Neptune models had many issues with them and recalls, have you had any work done on this since you owned it?

You'll likely need a new main control board, door latch switch, and motor conversion kit.

How long have you owned this washer?

Jake

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Thanks once again for your advice. I know little about this washer’s history. I bought it about a month ago from a seller who never used the washer or heard it run. It came with a the house she bought. She already owned a newer unit so this washer went on the block. I fetched it from her garage where it sat uninstalled with a non-matching dryer. It was the washer, not the dryer we wanted – and I’ve since moved the dryer along to family who needed one. The wife and I owned a Maytag washer for more than 25 years that we bought new in the mid-1980s. Throughout its lifetime, I replaced numerous parts that I considered ordinary wear-out items, such as belts, starters, pulleys and even the motor. Recently, for an accumulation of mechanical reasons, we finally decided to retire the old Maytag beater. But we wanted to upgrade to a front-loader anyway and hoped to find a deeply discounted used Maytag. I have no regrets buying this Neptune front-loader Model # MAH 3000AWW. I knew going in that someday it would need parts, if not now, then later. I read reports about its issues such as mold in the front-door gasket and circuit board—but, as a farmer, I also know there’s nothing mechanical that doesn’t have issues. This one’s cabinet is nearly perfect and its insides dry. Of course, I’d loved for it to work the day we brought it home, but it didn’t. In case you’re curious, the young woman we bought this from said if neither washer nor dryer worked she’d refund 100% of the price, which I told her, no, that wouldn’t be necessary, I’m buying a pig-in-the-poke and the sale’s final, no need to worry. We’ve since bought a used Kenmore top-loader that’s filling the bill nicely for our daily needs, which we’ll pass along as soon as I get this Maytag running right.

You suggested that this washer likely needs a new main control board, door latch switch, and motor conversion kit. (1) Will a broken door latch switch keep the unit from working, say, in the spin cycle? I ask this question because it might be the logical first step to replace it before the control board. (2) However, I also have read where these control boards are vulnerable … since the original, is a new board improved, tougher and thus a smart upgrade just in case this one is original? Looking into the washing machine from behind it, is the control board mounted on the washer’s base just to the left of the drum? And do you reach it from the back or is there another way with a bit more elbowroom to get at it? (3) “Motor conversion kit” … sounds fine to me, and surely a necessary improvement. In case this one already has that, how would I know? And what's its point, what's it converting to/from? Thanks for all your help.

Yes.

Yes, in fact all the parts I listed above have been improved.

No, thats the motor control board that sits on the washer base. The main control board is inside the control console on top.

You get at the motor control board from the front of your washer, the front panel comes off.

You would know, because it has a different shape to it than the original.

From the old style to the new style, greatly improved.

I know you told the person who sold it to you that you wouldn't be asking for a refund, but this washer may be the exception, due to all the problems its had over the years.

As a farmer, you are business man like myself, and with business you can't afford to invest in a product that you will have to put more money into than you paid for, and these parts aren't cheap, you'll be spending about $400 for now just to change the parts I listed above, are you sure you want to do that?

Whats the serial# of this washer? I can tell you the year it was built, because these MAH3000AWW models are the first generation Maytags that they started making in 1998, so this washer is likely to be already over 10 years old.

My advice would be to save that $400 for a brand new washer that comes with a warranty and proven to last for the long haul.

The Kenmore HE3/HE4/HE5 and Whirlpool Duets have been proven and are extremely reliable.

Jake

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Jake, thanks so much for your insight regarding my Maytag MAH 3000 AWW: serial # 17129590SU. From the Appliance Blog I've also downloaded the 157-page repair manual for this specific washer and am enjoying the read -- as if I really need another project.

Regarding the purchase of this Maytag Neptune, I paid $100 all total for it and a Kenmore 70 series electric dryer. The dryer I gave to a friend who needed it, with no strings attached. His way of saying thanks was to give me three cases of Valvoline 10W-40 motor oil, which I would've bought from him anyway, and he got at a discount because he works at a parts house. With this washer, I honestly figure I have less than 30 bucks in it, and the young woman I bought if from I think is fair to say should get on without being troubled.

Yes, our original idea was to buy new, but the prices for these front-loaders is frightful, even used, which was the attraction whether this Maytag 3000 worked or not at the time of purchase considering the low-cost risk going in. Where I stand, cash is scarce right now and what credit remains may well-come to being needed for something much more important than an upgrade for a washer. As I mentioned, I bought a Kenmore 90 series washer as a stop-gap and paid $140 only mere days after this Maytag 3000 proved kaput. The Kenmore is doing terrific and suffices far better for us in the short run than the 25-year old Maytag that I could've repaired but instead gave an unceremonious burial to in a green dumpster. When I get this current Maytag 3000 running, I'll give the stop-gap Kenmore to the same friend who also really needs an upgrade there, too. The wife and I didn't desire a front-loader out of fashion, as is the case I've noticed these days touring Home Depot and Lowe's, but because I have a few car covers that whenr I wash them I need to take to a commercial laundry mat where they have front-loaders. When I get this Maytag 3000 running, aside from the savings derived from in-home washing the covers, which eventually will off-set the parts in a few years, just simply doing without the hassle of going to the laundry mat will make it worthwhile.

My source for parts for appliances that I've repaired in the past is http://www.partselect.com/AdvancedMo...Num=&fkMfgID=1 I'm open to any and all suggestions. If this unit weren't so clean looking and possibly just the ticket for what both the wife and I need, I'd probably not pursue it. I agree with you, before I'm finished I could have a chunk of money in it. But, if I already owned it, say, bought it brand new 10 years ago and it developed problems, then, today, I'd repair it with new parts anyway and rest easy knowing that I practically have it as good as new again, and, just as importantly, that I know my way around inside it.

Thanks again for all your help.

Ok, I understand.

We can beat Partselect's price on that main control board.

Best price on it from our parts supplier:
Manufacturer's Number: 22002988

22002988

Here's the door latch wax motor for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 12002535

12002535

Here's the motor conversion kit for your model(Best price as well):
Manufacturer's Number: 12002039

12002039

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Jake, thanks for your input in the past and would love another piece of advice from you. I came across this website and it seems on the level: http://www.neptunewaxmotor.com/index.htm . The still photos and the video are most impressive. And this seems like a sincere provider of parts and info who addresses the exact problem that has befallen this Neptune. I'm really not looking to save nickles: dollars, yes, but in the end would like to have this project finished so if the gamble consists of say $5 or $10 that's worth the try -- but not if you know and others too that this is just not going to work and has proven so. I've disassembled the front of my washer and the wax motor is the old red style. So it is kaput, needs updated, for sure, and likely took out the circuit board when it failed. I'm perfectly comfortable with re-soldiering the circuit board as this site shows, and it seems worth the effort to do so on the surface. But in your experience, is this only a pipe dream kind of repair, when in reality barely solves the problem of wax motor update and circuit board? Thanks in advance for your help.

Yes, some members have gone that route, but since I've never myself did it like that before, I'm afraid I can't shed any light on it, sorry.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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