All of a sudden our icemaker stop working. The ice trays are completely dry. I did notice as it was on its out, the cubes were getting smaller and smaller leading me to belive its clogged. I have searched an could not find anything on this model. Any help would be great as today it hit 75!

Serial is 10121742JC

Water Dispense is fine, temp is good, although its a bit on the cold side...

Possibly the ice maker side of your dual water inlet valve went out.

Here's the dual water inlet valve for your model:
Manufacturer part number 67006322 is RepairClinic item number 1187201
67006322

It should be located in the back of your refrigerator were your water supply line from your house hooks-up to it.

Jake

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Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
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So I can replace this from the bacK?

More than likely yes.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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The part arrived this AM and I removed the unit from wall and the back is one sold piece. There is nothing I can access from the rear. I removed the bottom grill and there is a plastic tube that comes in the bottom then goes to the top inside the back pannel

So how do i replace this part?

Ok, looks like they moved the water inlet valve to inside the refrigerator door section on this model.

Here's the repair manual:
http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16026312.pdf
Read/print page 31 where it says Water Dispenser Facade.

Its #15 here:


Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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I was able to get the front facade and went a bit further and took off the chute assembley. I was still left with the door cavity and from what I could see, could not be removed too easily.

So how do I take that off? I lifted up on it and the entire door moves, so there is something holding on.

This is one tuff piece to get to...

On page 21 it looks like everything is in the rear, but there is no way I can see to get to that unless I remove the cabinet.

I'm not really sure on this model, these came out after I quit Sears, so I didn't have any training on these models yet.

Lets see if any other techs can weigh in on this just to make sure.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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After studying the diagram, I was able to determine, I can acess the valve from the inside. I saw a plastic housing inside the refidge and used a flat screw driver to remove the plastic covering.

Im now able to access the valve The plastic hoses going into the valve are really stuck in there, so I tried using a needle nose pliers to grab em and it started to crease the hose, so I stopped. How do I get the hoses out of the old valve and into the new valve?

Is there a tecquince or just brust force?

Thanks

So the water valve was not in the door, but in the refrigerator itself?

Do they have those little blue rings at the end of the water valve were the water line goes into it? If so, push those rings in while pulling hard on the water line tubing.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances