Admiral S/Side HMG-62163 runs warm - ApplianceBlog.com

***dlove*** · #1 April 9th, 2009, 10:56 PM

I looked in previous posts/threads and got enough guidance to point me in the right direction, I think. This model (HMG-62163) is about 17 or 18 years old. For about half that time, we couldn't use the vegetable bins because it would freeze the vegetables. We never found a way around that problem, by adjusting cold/cool setting & air flow controls.

Last year I replaced the thermostat located in the upper right of the refrigerator side after a few days of warm or not cold air on that side. Seemed to do the job.

A few days ago both sides were fairly warm. Frozen vegetables started thawing and the regrigerator side was too warm for safe storage. The ice maker quit working. However, the back of the freezer compartment was coverd with the layer of frosty ice mentioned in similar posts. Eventually, no air at all was flowing into the refrigerator siide through the little gateway/tube at the top.

I didn't have a multi-meter to test the 3 suggested defroster components you mentioned, eg., defrost timer, defrost heater,or defrost thermostate. (Also, I don't know what to test, how, etc.).

I melted the ice off the evaporator coils and vanes, while the refrig was running, and let the unit run for a few minutes after I was done. It seems like it is back to normal--the ice maker cranked out some ice and refilled; cold air was flowing to the refrig side, again,and; the freezer was blowing around very cold air. Super! But, it's not going to last, is it, until I replace the heater, thermostat, or...?

Is the defrost thermostat located above the evaporator coil, as in a similar Admiral Designer Series thread, i.e., 10/28/07, from "grose70" ? When I get an ohm reading on it, how is that obtained? What leads do I tap onto? I understand the reading should be zero.

You also mentioned the defrost timer is in the refrig section and behind the light shield: This unit must be a little different than the one in that earlier post. Is the timer behind the galvanized metal box in the right corner, where I replaced the thermostat? I haven't removed the metal cover, yet, but I haven't found the hole or switch you mentioned. "....turn it clockwise, through the small hole in the metal casing, till you hear it click then your regfigerator should shut down and go into defrost." And where should I expect to see the orange glow of the heater? I can't see anthing like the heater behind the coils.

Finally, at the bottom front, mounted on the frame below and between the freezer and refrig, is what I think must be a defrost-something? But it is very difficult to determine what it is: I thought it must be the timer? What is it? By the way, it's been three hours and coils are frosting up very rapidly. And how is the evaporator panel cover held in place at the top, once the screw behind the light buld is removed--I don't see anythng more to remove, yet the top seems firmly attached out of my signt.

Is this unit worth saving?

***Jake*** · #2 April 10th, 2009, 12:04 AM

Hi dlove,

There should be another number after the "3" at the end of your model#.

Using an ohm meter is the way to check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat. Normal reading for the defrost is 11-30 ohm.

Normal reading on the defrost thermostat is 0 ohms while its frosty.

Jake

***dlove*** · #3 April 10th, 2009, 06:54 PM

Thanks for the fast response. I checked the defrost thermostat while it was cold, not frosty, and it was between 1 and 0. The coils were starting to frost over toward the bottom of the evaporator but I wouldn't say the thermostat was frosty at all. Does this matter?

The model on the exploded view of the refrig on the back is HMG-62163; same as on the consumer label on the door. I checked parts for the model at RepairClinic.com and three model numbers pop up--all with the extra number you said should be there. (62165-0, -1 and -7) Also, the part numbers for the defrost components are the same, regardless of the final digit.

The diagram on the back of the refig shows the defrost timer location at the front, behind the kick/vent panel. It doesn't exactly match the photo of part 1356 from RepairClinic.com. They have the same wiring, apparently, but mine is solid black, has S-69543-6 on the label, and is shaped a bit differently. There is no hole to manually advance the timer, while the replacement part appears to have one. Other than mounting, is there any thing I should be concerned about if this part is needed?

The refrig has been running well for about 24 hours since I manually defrosted the coils. They are frosting over again, especially at the lower 1/3. The defrost therm seems to check out as workable. That leaves the timer and the heater, which I can't even find. I suppose I can get the timer off but I don't see the advance hole. It could be hidden from view on the back side, until I remove it; is that likely?

What do you suggest? (I'm okay waiting a few days for the frost to build up again, if that helps with checking out the defrost thermostat. Advisable or necessary?)

I can also call a repair shop, which my wife is hinting at, always preceded by "Honey,.." I'm in Portland and don't think I can afford a house-call from Springfield or I'd give you a service call. Once I'm 95% sure on which part(s) to buy, I'll use one of your sponsors--we're using a basement backup refrig, so we're not in a pickle about this. If you care to make a recommendation on private email or here, feel free to do that.

Thanks for your help. I've discovered this "part-time career" is a younger person's job.

dlove

***Jake*** · #4 April 10th, 2009, 10:16 PM

Your defrost thermostat is good.

Your model# tag is located inside the refrigerator section on the upper walls or ceiling, or down on the very bottom frame in the front once you remove the kickplate grill.

So on your model the defrost timer is down on the very bottom after you remove the kickplate grill?

You can unmount it, then turn the timer till your refrigerator clicks off, then it will be in defrost, then you can see if your defrost heater comes on underneath your evaporator coil in your freezer. Let it stay in defrost(takes about 20-30 minutes) then the timer should kick it out of defrost and start running again, if you don't notice any defrost heat at all during this time period, and your defrost thermostat kicks it back on to running again, then that tells us your defrost heater is bad.

If you remove the wiring connections from the defrost heater, and ohm your defrost heater, then it should read between 11-30 ohms.

Here's the defrost timer for your model:
The manufacturer has replaced part number 69543-6 with this item, part number 68233-3. Manufacturer part number 68233-3 is RepairClinic item number 1356

Jake

***dlove*** · #5 April 11th, 2009, 11:45 AM

Thanks, Jake. Those are golden words of wisdom and I'm going to pounce on that refrigerator right away. I may have to call a repair person, for physical reasons, but at least I'll understand what they are doing. Or, "Well, now, Jake said..."

I hope this is it. Thanks, again.

dlove

***Jake*** · #6 April 11th, 2009, 04:12 PM

Thanks dlove, let us know how it goes.

Jake

***dlove*** · #7 April 13th, 2009, 02:42 PM

Thanks, again, Jake for your expert advice.

AFter all this back-and-forth, the defrost timer advance switch was accessible through a hole in the frame to which it is mounted and a hole, also, in a black fiber dust guard--for want of a better identification. So, I advanced it until I heard the click and, 25 minutes later, the motor came back on. I did this twice. So, the timer is good, per your advice. I never saw any orange glow from the quartz heater lamps.

I recheckd the defroster thermostat and it reads <1 to 0 ohms.

On the heater, getting to it seems to be a problem. I see 6 hex-head screws which seem to secure the frame into which the coils are secured. I'm assuming that behind the coils I will find the heater lamps. If not there, then behind another piece of protective aluminum behind the coils, which makes sense given that the heater is two glass lamp bulbs.

Not knowing any of this for sure--and also, how would I get the evaporator unit out of my way while finding/working on the heater?--I'm going for the repairman for, maybe, $150 to $175. Hopefully. But, out of curiosity, just where are the heater lamps? Behind how many more layers of foil or baffles would I have to slither to get to them.

Further, It appears that to get the white flexible panel at the rear of the freezer compartment out of my way, I need to remove two more screws at the very top of the panel. To get to those screws, it looks like the ice maker motor/auger unit has to be removed.

Don't take a lot of time with this, but am I seeing correctly? Or do repairmen just simply know everything I don't know about appliances? I suppose that is a rhetorical question.

Dlove.

***Jake*** · #8 April 13th, 2009, 04:15 PM

Ok Dlove,

Your defrost heater assembly is #20 here:
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...2007-00001.png
It mounts on the #37 metal bracket just under your bottom evaporator coil. It has 2 heaters attached to it, one also that goes on the bottom of the upper evaporator coil as well.

Here's the defrost heater assembly for your model:
Defrost heater set with wires, 2- nine inch heaters

Jake

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