Maytag Gas Dryer Model LDG4820, converted to LPG

The burner will sometimes light for one or two cycles and then not light again. Sometimes it will not light at all. The ignitor turns on for about 10 seconds and then goes off. When it goes off you hear a single loud click coming from the gas valve. There is no flame or smell of gas.

The symptoms pointed to the gas valve coils. I replaced both without testing the original coils. The ignitor is still working and I can still hear the single loud click, but there is no gas or flame. I have verified there is gas in the tank.

Is there a way to test the gas valve itself? Could anything other than the gas valve cause the same symptoms? If it is the gas valve, do I need a special valve for LPG?

Thanks!

Bob

Hi Bob,

Unfortunately, there's no way to test the gas valve itself, but that sure sounds like the problem, since you already replaced the gas coils and that didn't fix it.

What Series is your dryer? It should say on your model# tag. Because if its not a Series 01, they don't even make that gas valve anymore.

No, but you will need to order the conversion kit from Natural to LP with it.

Jake

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Thanks for the help Jake,

There is no series number shown on the tag. The serial number is A3325126FB. This dryer is about 15 years old and the only parts we've had to replace have been the ignitor and the drum belt. It has lived up Maytag's advertising and I'd hate to have to replace it.

I checked the old coils at work today and they are both very close to 1300 ohms, so I know why the coils did not fix the problem. I'm taking my Fluke home tonight and I'll check the voltage going to the coils. If it is good, then I'll call our LPG supplier and ask them to look at it.

Thanks again,

Bob

Jake,

I checked the voltage going to the coils and it is OK. When running the dryer tonight it went through four cycles before it failed to light. But with the front cover off this time I smelled gas when it failed to light. And the smell was quite strong. I think there was plenty of gas and the ignitor coil was red hot.

I think the smell indicates the gas valve is opening. But I also notice the ignitor is slanted slightly away from the burner due to the way it is mounted and the heating element on the ignitor is also curved slightly away even more.

How close should the ignitor coil be to the center line of the burner? I can reposition it to get it a little closer.

Thanks for any additional help with this.

Bob

I'm not sure how close the igniter should be to the center line of the burner, but yes you can adjust it closer, that would be fine to do Bob.

Let us know if that fixes it.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Jake,

After taking the igniter loose and positioning it properly in the bracket on the side of the burner, the dryer is working again. I can visibly notice the gas is lighting now the instant the gas valve clicks. Before, when it did light, there was about a one second delay.

This ignigter was replaced under warranty 16 years ago, and has been working all that time. But it was sure not sitting in the bracket properly. The screw holding it was very tight as well. It's a mystery I won't spend any more time on. All is well that end well. I learned a lot about gas dryers on this forum. Thanks for your help!

Bob

Excellent, good job Bob.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances