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Old August 27th, 2009, 04:40 PM
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Default Maytag MSD2657HEW Icemaker Problem

I have a Maytag MSD2657HEW side by side (4 yrs old) with an icemaker that stopped working suddenly. I still get water at the door but the ice function is not working at all. I have inspected the module per some testing instructions and when I check for power at L and N, I get nothing. I have also tried the jumper wire between T and H to manually start a cycle. Nothing happened. With the module connected and the power wire unplugged I get 72 ohms at L-H (heater). With module off the support I get 7700 ohms between L-M (motor).

There is no water in the mold and the ejector blades are in the normal stop position.

Then after I messed with it, the mold now has water in it and it may be working again.

Should there always be 110v at L-N test holes?
Is there anything else that would stop it from working?
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Old August 28th, 2009, 09:23 AM
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Yes, there should be 120 volts across L-N on the module per Jeff's module page here:
icemaker modual test procedures, how to test, test points, repair sheets, the ice cubes stay in my icemaker and will not come out, black marks in the cubes

Sounds like possibly a short in your ice maker module.

Here's the ice maker assembly for your model you can order:
Manufacturer's Number: D7824706Q

D7824706Q

We have a special program here, all parts you order from our links we post are returnable within 30 days for a FULL refund if they don't fix the problem.

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Old August 28th, 2009, 09:49 AM
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It seems as though that may be the case. But, one more question though. I unplugged the wiring harness that goes from the icemaker to the back wall of the freezer and checked for power there at the plug. I checked each hole (4) grounding my meter on the metal shroud inside the freezer. Should I also get 110v at one of those points?
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Old August 28th, 2009, 10:27 AM
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Yes, you should, are you measing any of those points to ground to see if your get 120 volts?

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Old August 28th, 2009, 10:48 AM
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I was grounding to the large metal cover inside the freezer behind where the ice bucket is. I assumed that it was connected to the chassis of the refrig. I can run a longer lead off my meter to an electrical outlet to be sure unless you have a better suggestion. Is the green wire in the 4 wire plug a ground? If so, I should get 110 from one of the other wires to the green one right?
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Old August 28th, 2009, 03:37 PM
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Yes, running the longer lead would be better just to be sure.

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Old August 28th, 2009, 03:55 PM
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OK, here's the latest. Icemaker is working fine right now. What I found out about the power is that the door has to be closed for power to feed to L-N. So with the meter connected and the door switch pushed I get 120V. The metal plate in the back of the freezer is indeed a good ground. So, as of now, I will monitor the operation and see if it continues to work. Basically all I have done is remove the module and re-install it twice. Thanks for your help. This site is awesome. If it fails any more I will replace it with one that you showed in the earlier post. Thanks!
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Old August 28th, 2009, 06:18 PM
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Ahh, yes, sorry about that, forgot to mention the door has to be closed(or door switch pushed in) for the 120 volts.

Quote:
If it fails any more I will replace it with one that you showed in the earlier post. Thanks!
Ok, sounds good.

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Old September 5th, 2009, 07:02 AM
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The icemaker worked for a week and then stopped again. After messing with it a bit, it now cycles manually up to the point where the fingers push the cubes out (line on dial at about 7 oclock). It stops and the wheel on the front of the control backs up a bit and tries again and again and again (back and forth between 6-8 oclock). I assume that the heater is not working? Tested at L-H during movement and got 0v. Is the heater repairable?
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Old September 5th, 2009, 10:04 AM
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No, the heater isn't repairable.

Order the ice maker I posted above and your ice maker issues will be history.

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