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  #1  
Old October 26th, 2009, 07:46 AM
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Default MSD2357HEB - ice maker not working

We started having problems with the ice maker spitting out half-made ice cubes and having the "fingers" that push out the ice cubes get frozen in odd positions. The freezer itself stays plenty cold, so I don't think it was a temperature problem.

We had needed to change the water filter, since the water flow was really low, relative to what it should be, so I just removed the ice maker from the freezer, thinking that maybe the low water flow was contributing to the problem.

The ice maker came out really easily -- one screw and a molex-type 4-conductor plug. It sat in my cupboard for about 2 months.

So, we replaced the filter and I went ahead and reinstalled the ice maker over the weekend, and now it does absolutely nothing. I put the ice-sensing switch in the down position, but it never dispenses water or tries to eject the (nonexistent) ice cubes.

The water dispenser in the door dispenses water just fine. No complaints there -- the water flow is as good as I remember.

I had, at one time, the documentation on this unit that was stored in a pouch underneath it, but my young son "found" the paperwork and now I no longer have it, so I don't know what troubleshooting steps that paperwork would advocate.
Any ideas?

Last edited by fortoreibas; October 26th, 2009 at 07:58 AM..
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  #2  
Old October 26th, 2009, 10:10 AM
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Ok,

Have you seen the ice maker cycle since you re-installed it? If so, then towards the end of the cycle it should send a 120 volts signal to the water inlet valve which is located in the back of your refrigerator where your water supply lines hooks up to, then the 120 volt signal would open the ice maker side of your water inlet valve solenoid to let water fill your ice maker.

Here's the water inlet valve for your model:
Manufacturer's Number: 67005154
icon
icon
icon67005154
The smaller white hole is the ice maker side of your water inlet valve.

Do you have a volt meter so you can measure 120 volts at the electrical connector of that solenoid?

Jake
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Old October 26th, 2009, 10:25 AM
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Default

I have not seen the ice maker do anything or make any kind of sound since I reinstalled it. I even checked the molex plug, and as I expected, it's keyed so that I don't have it in backwards.

Yes, I do have a volt meter. Will check tonight and come back with the results, although if it won't cycle I don't know what I'll find.

Last edited by fortoreibas; October 26th, 2009 at 10:33 AM..
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Old October 26th, 2009, 10:32 AM
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To manually start the ice maker cycle:
Short T & H with an insulated piece of wire ( 14 gauge) with the ends of the wire bare approx 1/2" to run the ice maker motor. icemaker modual test procedures, how to test, test points, repair sheets, the ice cubes stay in my icemaker and will not come out, black marks in the cubes

Jump T & H while holding your freezer light switch in.

Then leave the jumper wire in T & H for about 15-20 seconds, after you see the gear moving.

Then go in the back of your refrigerator and take off the electrical connector that connects to the ice maker side solenoid and put your volt meter leads in the electrical connector and watch your meter towards the end of the cycle, the meter should read 120 volts for about 5-6 seconds.

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Old October 26th, 2009, 07:38 PM
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake View Post
To manually start the ice maker cycle:
Jump T & H while holding your freezer light switch in.

Then leave the jumper wire in T & H for about 15-20 seconds, after you see the gear moving.

Then go in the back of your refrigerator and take off the electrical connector that connects to the ice maker side solenoid and put your volt meter leads in the electrical connector and watch your meter towards the end of the cycle, the meter should read 120 volts for about 5-6 seconds.
I shorted T and H, and nothing happened. I did it several ways and with the same results. The motor didn't move at all, even after I held the freezer door switch in and left it jumpered for 60 seconds or so. The one time I pulled the jumper out sloppily, I noticed a slight arc, so power seems fine. Checking across L and N gives 120V when the door switch is depressed. This doesn't bode well, does it?
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Old October 27th, 2009, 09:37 AM
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Yes, then its your ice maker thats bad.

Here's the ice maker assembly for your model you can order:
Manufacturer's Number: D7824706Q

D7824706Q

It says for Amana, but Amana is owned by Maytag, so they use the exact same ice maker in both.

Jake
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