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  #11  
Old November 17th, 2009, 08:53 PM
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You'll likely need to have Maytag come out, you may have a more technical underlying issue causing this issue.

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  #12  
Old November 18th, 2009, 09:03 AM
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So, if that's the best you can offer, your advice has cost me a bunch of money needlessly and has been no help in repairing my unit.
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  #13  
Old November 18th, 2009, 09:43 AM
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You can return the parts you purchased within 30 days for a full refund if you ordered them through the links I posted above.

You have to understand, its impossible to fix any appliance in just a forum like this when the common parts that are related to this issue don't fix them. And the parts I listed are the most common parts, and I've fixed lots of these Maytag's with these parts through-out the years myself.

I will even refund your $5 membership fee, just PM your transaction#.

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  #14  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 12:21 PM
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I'm doing some more research on this....you said

You'll want to ohm that thermostat out first, should read 0-1 ohm, its under the front of your dishwasher tub#16 here(make sure you have the breaker off to your dishwasher first) OR you can take the 2 wires off of it and use electrical tape to tape those 2 wires together to bypass the thermostat and see if it runs through the cycle thats hanging:

I ohmed the stat again and at room temp it's 0.7-1.2 ohms (it varies after heating and opening). Applying heat it goes to infinite, but I can't tell at what temp., probably in the 140 range. So you say I should try bypassing it by shorting the two leads? Seems that would tell the machine that the water's never getting hot enough since hot=open. Wouldn't disconnecting it be the appropriate test for run through?
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Old November 22nd, 2009, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
at room temp it's 0.7-1.2 ohms
That should mean its good.

Quote:
Wouldn't disconnecting it be the appropriate test for run through?
Nope, trust me, I've done that before to no Advil.

See what happens is on most models it will wash or rinse forever if the water doesn't heat up enough to satisfy the control board.

So it seems your thermostat is fine, so I'd check the heating element, but you already said
Quote:
I can tell you the water gets plenty hot--I got a faceful of vapor opening it.
So thats why I said its possibly more of a technical underlying problem, as those 2 parts are basically the most common when this issue happens, a tech that comes out to your house to check this problem would be more inclined to look for other things in the circuit/wiring harness thats possibly shorting out.

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Old November 22nd, 2009, 09:58 PM
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RepairClinic said the element should be 5 to 50 ohms, it's 15.8.
I did the shunt the stat out thing, still hangs on rinse.
Took the stat and applied heat---goes to infinite when hot, BUT, one thing odd is that each time it opens and closes the resistance is different....6 heat/cool cycles, got readings from 0.4 ohms to 44 ohms. Weird, contacts maybe crusty?
AND, I just found something suspect...bare copper ground wire hanging out of the J-box was touching one of the heating element spades. I'm surprised it didn't throw the breaker if it was shorting (neutral side of the element I guess?)

I will try it again now.
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  #17  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 10:52 PM
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Yup, that bare copper wire might be doing it.

Let us know how it goes.

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  #18  
Old November 22nd, 2009, 11:09 PM
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The wire was touching the neutral side.
Here is a log of the cycle "Light wash"--I used amprobe, VOM & remote thermocouple thermometer
Water in at 89 F
ran about 8 minutes, element on, 6.3 amps draw
stopped at 111.8 F
drained, refilled
water in about 107 F
ran about 3 minutes, no power to element
drained, refilled
water in about 110.6 F
element on 6.3A
at 15 minutes 138.4 F
at ~18 min. 139.8 F, power now off to element
Keeps running
Stat NOT open, 0.4 ohms

How hot should each cycle get and how long should it take?

Is there another sensor (besides the one on the bottom) that would turn off power to the element? Or is it timed?
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  #19  
Old November 23rd, 2009, 07:50 AM
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Maytag doesn't provide the tech. data sheet online for this model, so I couldn't tell you exactly how hot and how long it should take, but generally, its 1 degree every 5-10 minutes on most dishwasher models.

But water-in at 89 degrees is too low, your hot water heater should be set at about 120-130 degrees, so the first water in should be about the same. If your water heater is a ways away from your dishwasher/sink, I always advise customers to run the hot water at the sink till it gets max hot, then start the dishwasher.

Quote:
Is there another sensor (besides the one on the bottom) that would turn off power to the element? Or is it timed?
No other sensor, its timed.

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