Most of the frost came out, but I unplugged and left it overnight to get everything fresh. I think it will be ok now. That is except.......for the water that sept through my towels and caused my hardwood to bow up. Now I have to replace that board. AHHHH!!!! It never ends!!!! But it gives me stuff to do.

Thanks again,

Ben in Green Bay

Sounds good Dave, keep us posted.

Jake

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Ok Ben, but if it frosts up again, one of those 3 parts will have to be changed.

Jake

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Jake and others;

Today it became time to defrost again and install the replacement ADC.

The Service manual was sort of helpful in the process. We double-teamed the effort, one defrosting and one pulling down the overhead controls.

The old defrost control board had a folded up wiring schematic in the compartment with it and had no obvious bad components. Installed the new ADC and put everything back together and now the machine is working again.

Time will tell if this work will solve the defrosting issue.

Took about 2 hours.

dave.

Sounds good Dave, glad you got your new ADC installed, it should work perfect from here on out.

Jake

__________________
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So far so good, a day later the fridge is cooling nicely and the compressor is not running as much.

During disassembly on the last defrostings, I noticed what appears to be a broken spring (coiled metal piece ending abruptly, not in a loop for fastening or anything, and apparently connected to a wire that runs into the fridge compartment) in the triangular housing in the top back of the freezer, the duct that feeds the fridge side trough two tubes.

Looking at the service manual diagram, it appears it may have something to do with temperature sensing rather than acting as a spring.

It occupies a lower portion of the housing, which itself is triangular with a hole in the bottom. There is nothing in there that appears it could connect to a spring.

Is it actually related to temperature sensing or could it be a spring of some sort?

The diagram shows a second spring related to opening and closing a door which I haven't found yet.

Happy New Year!

dave.

I think I found it, its #10 here:
http://www3.sears.com/imaging/ImageP...&titleID=00002

Jake

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Yes, #10 is it; what does it do?

I see the diagram, but not the reference list...

dave.

I have seen this condition particularly in Maytag. Be sure you actually need to replace the board !

If frozen food is placed too close to the vents at the mid to upper rear of the freezer, on these side-by-side models, you can have trouble that mimics a bad ADC.

The evap coil will frost up solid, which in turn will block air from passing up the freezer and through the damper control and into the fridge.
The freezer temp will be okay, crispers with individual temp controls will be okay, but the upper portion of the fridge will be warm, with no airflow from the vents.

So you think you need to replace the ADC? You start by emptying the freezer (thereby removing the offending vent obstruction) defrost your coil, reload the freezer (chances are it's more organized and you or your customer haven't jammed the vent,) you replace the ADC board, and presto - everythings just fine... seems like a new ADC did the trick! ...

Well not really. Until someone shoves a couple bags of frozen veggies into the freezer, and in a couple weeks you could be back for service.

For what it's worth, defrost the coils and have your customer be aware of the vents in the freezer, before you replace that ADC board.

Mr. Fixit;

Thanks for the post!

Blocked vents were not the issue. We load the fridge carefully, so on the first instance that was not the cause, and as you note, after that, I refilled the freezer even more orderly than usual and still we had another need to defrost.

Upon the third emptying and defrost, and replacement of the ADC, we've had to date no issues with fridge or freezer temps, though we haven't opened the freezer back panels to look.

Still, we're tuned in to the symptoms and haven't yet noticed any.

dave.