Thanks Jake for your response. Yes, the lights are on but the only fan I see running is the one next to the compressor.

I removed the rear cover and I see a relay? mounted on the left side of the compressor with two wire connected to it (labeled 180 vac). the compressor has a black plastic box mounted on the left side of it, I believe the relay and overload unit in in there, but I cannot open this box, is there a trick to open this.

Also, when I plug the unit in and raise the temp controls to max I do hear a relay click every few minutes but the compressor does not turn on, I cannot determine if it is coming from the black plastic box mounted on the compressor or the relay that is mounted on the frame. I have enclosed a picture, the black relay is on the left hand frame. Thanks again

Attached Thumbnails

 

Ok, you have the separate relay and overload. Yes its in the black cover that mounts to the side of your compressor, I use a flathead screwdriver and pry that cover off, should just unsnap, don't be afraid to force it off.

Then you can use a ohm meter to check continuity on both the relay and overload.

Jake

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Jake, The item that was mounted on the frame is actually the start capacitor. I checked the overload module it was fine, I then ohmed out the relay but it was a open circuit. Just like you said when I shook the relay you can hear that it was broken.

Just installed the new relay and the compressor immediately cycled on! the freezer temp was 65, 45 minutes later it is already down to 20. The only other issue I have is that there is a louder fan noise/vibration that is coming from the freezer compartment rear cover, is this most likely a noisy fan?

Thanks so much for your help I really appreciate it.

Good job finding it was the relay that was bad and installing a new one.

Yes, but give it time for the temperatures to stabilize, usually 24 hours and if its still noisy let me know.

Jake

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Jake,
Think I found the problem...
The ADC board I originally purchased (eBay) was labeled on the box and the piece itself with 61005988, but it was actually a 12002104 ADC. It was the overload relay at all because I went and bought another 61005988 and everything worked great. I didn't think too much of it when I looked at the different configuation of the 12002104, I just figured it was a re-design with an LED light added.

Some further research said:
<>

< Cycle cold control on and off three times in six seconds. The cold control needs to be left in the closed (call for cooling) position for the defrost system to energize on all platforms. It is not enough to cycle the cold control knob, the contacts must actually open and close (open doors for a period of time if necessary to force the control to call for cooling). In most cases, you can hear the contacts open and close if they are doing so.
To Terminate Forced Defrost Cycle: Disconnect power for five seconds.>>

This sounds like a bunch of crap...my Maytag has the 'slide-type' cold control levers...if I did the on & off in six seconds I would probably break them off!!

I wanted to thank you again for all your help...I learned a lot and will not hesitate to attempt any future repairs..

Tom

Thats why I've always been and will always be against purchasing appliance parts from ebay.

Glad a new ADC fixed it Tom.

Jake

__________________
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Hello all... wanted to say a huge thanks to the site, and everyone contributing. A great find, and one that I do believe I used years ago when my fridge needed a new ADC module (back then, replacement numero uno)

I've again, found this site... being my fridge side is warm, freezer cold, and coils frozen over... and yes, with the little pool of water each morning at the left side front of fridge door (on floor)... (sounds like replacement numero dos!)

MODEL: MSD2756DEW
SERIAL: 14162555YW

I used some warm water, and my wet vac to clean the coils of ice... dethawing them... and out of curiousity looked into the "auto damper door" that allows cool air into the fridge from freezer section. It looked fine, but wasn't as "easy" to get to as you might think. I too had masking tape holding my lower long foam "deflector" in place and had to remove it. Then the foam "air tunnel" was securely frozen to my slide control housing. I had to break it free with some force, but not enough to damage it. And yes, those pesky little clips in the rear of the housing are a pain if you have bad eyesight.... but, a gentle tug down and outward is the key (as mentioned before). I used the service manual (also linked to in these threads) to get a better picture of the assembly, since nobody seemed to mention that pesky "door" was hidden behind the foam 'deflector'. I hope that info helps others.

However, I couldn't find a "cellophane" or plastic screen to show the amount of flow in/out of the fridge to the freezer section. Only the "return air duct" behind the middle lower drawer. (as in THIS post). Am I missing something?? I don't know of any other place to look. Only the above 'entry' of air flow into the fridge via the foam ductwork and exit into the freezer via that duct. A mention of a "air shaft clear flapper" was in that post... and I see nothing of that nature (different model fridge maybe?!)

I already have the 'newer' looking ADC module with the white plastic cover. So I'm not so quick to just replace it, ordering new... and I read up on how to test it, as well at how to test other items to make sure all is working okay (with an ohm meter or bridging wire...etc). All great info, and all pretty straightforward (however, I'm in IT and a phone tech - DIYer type that knows too many other trades - and "trying" to think I know enough about refers... well, will get me in trouble).... Is there a "simple" way to know if the ADC needs to be replaced, or if it's the 'defrost heater'... or any other item along that chain of electronics?!

I've read a couple posts about getting the "defrost cycle" to come on manually... and would love to try that, feeling if the defrost heater is actually getting warm or not (much simpler in my opinion). Is there such a manual operation of the cycle?!

Last question...
Is there an advantage to covering (MODifying) the freezer supply vents, as in to add more air flow into the fridge side?!?! ...I've read up on that too and though it might help me speed up recovery of cold air into the fridge after leaving it open (from dethawing and checking things out).

Thanks a million,
Johnny

NOTES (and do you have the same issues?!);
- The wonderful rust thats accumalating under the 'fountain' tray... anyway to avoid it?! The panel is still white, but bubbling from it rusting underneath.
- the haunted water supply on/off of the fountain. Sometimes it doesn't turn off unless you hit the rubber pad with the glass again and again. Faulty switch?! ... is it easy to replace, or a cheap fix?!
- clogged ice-maker chute in door. Sometimes the ice-maker will drop ice into the chute, and the door will not drop cubes into the cup/glass. It seems that you need to "be in the know" to use the ice maker option correctly, or you'll end up with a clogged chute or with ice on the floor. Any ideas there?!

Thanks Johnny,

Lets tackle one issue at a time.

Your air duct should be fine, so lets bypass that for now.

The main issue your seeing today is your evaporator coil in your freezer is completely frosted-up massively. Lets not force a defrost either, as its very tricky to do on these ADC models.

We will do a process of elimination, first you will need to use an ohm meter to ohm your defrost thermostat for continuity while its still frosty to get a proper reading, should read 0-1 ohm.

Also ohm your defrost heater, should read 11-30 ohms.

Make sure you unplug your refrigerator first.

#12 here is your defrost thermostat and defrost heater assembly:


If you need to replace it, it comes with both the defrost heater/defrost thermostat assembly here:
Part#61006199
Defrost heater & thermostat assembly

If both your defrost thermostat and defrost heater check good, then it has to be the ADC board is bad again.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Just thought... I'd follow up and say my reefer is doing great.

What did I do?

What did I NOT do?

... well, since Jake's great post... and my impatience, I simply ordered BOTH the ADC and the defrost-heater & Thermostat. I replaced them both, and the reefer is again working great. I did not meter anything... even though, I have the nice Fluke meters, and the talen to test... it was easier and nearly cheaper (as the time to measure, and my time or energy to do so... is worth the extra couple of bucks) to simply order the parts rather than take the time to stop my day and 'check' readings. (Told ya I was impatient!)

Oddly, I noticed my already replaced once, ADC unit... was an older version, but WITH the white box/cover assembly. I noticed the ADC panel was older from reading notes/findings on this site. And the newer one, being as many describe as the 'newer model'.

... I should have taken a picture of both, for everyone's reference, but failed to do so. Sorry about that.

Good news is the reefer is cooling as normal, and has been since the parts were replaced.

THANK YOU!

Excellent Johnny good job fixing it.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

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