My freezer keep frosting up behind the freezer panel and I'd have the repairman come out and fix it. Then I found the instructions that came with it. It tells how to push the control buttons to check the various circuits. It runs through a complete check-out of the systems INCLUDING the defrost cycle. In effect, I was forcing it to go through the defrost cycle, which cured the problem.
Allowed me to stop calling the repair man when it happens, which is way to frequently. Mostly when we have company and the door is opened too much.

• My Maytag MSD2556AEB was frosting up; from this thread I felt it needed the ADC#61005988
• Ohm test showed about 25ohms
• Replaced ADC and still frosts up, fridge never shuts off.

The fridge fan used to stop, but while I was waiting for the part to come in we were defrosting it often and we had to turn it on and off by hand (perhaps the blow dryer on high broke something else). It never seems to defrost nor reach a temperature that it is happy with. The fridge gets cold without a problem, we are just manually watching the temperature.

Is there something else it could be? I'm not sure what to check next. And yes I did buy my part of ebay (I know probably a mistake, but wasn't confident enough to drop $60).

On a side note I was never able to get the ice-maker to work. I had to replace the pump in the back (the prior owner let it freeze and crack), and now the water works fine. I've checked the wires and they are correct. The tubes work and nothing leaks; and if I switch the wires I can use the 'water' button to make ice, lol. I doubt it has anything to do with this.

When you order parts from our links and banners here you always have a 30 day FULL REFUND if the part you install doesn't fix the problem.

You can Order it here:
Manufacturer's Number: 61005988


Its likely the defrost board is bad you got from ebay.

To make sure your defrost board is the problem:
Check your defrost thermostat and defrost heater, you will need an ohm meter to test for continuity on the defrost thermostat(WHILE ITS FROSTY) first. It should read 0 ohms.

Unplug your refrigerator first!

Here's the defrost heater/thermostat assembly for your model:
Manufacturer part#61006198 is RepairClinic item#1021857


Let us know what you find.

Jake

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Thank you for the quick response. I spent a lot of time troubleshooting the fridge yesterday and it appears the ebay part was bad. The Ohm test showed up at 0.1 ohms and looks good for the heater. The volts are 120 at the control board and appear to send that to the defrost heater when triggered (with the old board). If I understand it correctly the defrost thermostat is in series with the defrost timer - so that the timer tells the coil to heat up, but it will only oblige if the thermostat agrees with that call.

Anyway, the new board was giving me different volt readings, and trying to override everything and trigger the defrost heater on my own wasn't working (not sure if I can). The short end of it is I'm confident that your part would fix my fridge - worse case I would also need the defrost thermostat part; however we went and got a new fridge. Even if we were to fix this fridge, we don't trust it, it bothers us that the ice-maker doesn't work - and it isn't helping our electric bill all that much. On the plus side I did learn a lot.

Ok, yes, sounds like you did the right thing in getting the new refrigerator.

Yes, I've always been very against getting appliance parts on ebay, I remember a member a few weeks ago that got two bad dryer motors from ebay.

Hope you like your new refrigerator.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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Hi,

Maytag MSD2556AEW has had trouble with not keeping cold in past. Last summer we called the repairman and he defrosted the coils and replaced an electronic control (the ADC).
Since that time I had to manually defrost the coils 2 times last summer. Did fine over winter. Then 2-3 weeks ago again the refer was not keeping fresh foods or frozen foods cold. The coils were frozen solid and I defrosted them. Over the last 2-3 days foods have been not getting cold, cold air has not been blowing out the vents in the top of the fresh foods section. Again the coils were frozen solid.
I defrosted the coils and read this thread. I found a service manual for the appliance at http://www.servicematters.com/maytag...s/16010154.pdf
and the following thread in addition to this one Maytag refridgerator help - Self Help Forums
The ADC is a newer replacement with the enclosed box and a LED status light. I am not sure how to interpret the status LED as the manual does not mention it. It blinks when the refer is running. I shorted the L1 and test leads and the compressor and fan shut off for 20 min or so, but I felt no heat in the defrost coil. The LED status light came on solid after I shorted the leads. It went back to flashing after the defrost cycle time seemed to complete and the compressor and circulating fan started running again.
I tried testing the defrost thermostat and heating coil but am not sure I am doing it right. For resistance (at room temp) I get 240 ohms white to white, and white (1) to black. I get 22 ohms white (2 - or middle lead in the connector) to black. If I plug the refer back in and trigger the defrost mode by jumping L1 and test I get 120V in 2 of the three lead in the connector that the defrost coil and thermostat harness plugs into.
I'm not 100% sure but believe that I have either a bad heating coil or bad thermostat. Since they both come hard wired on a single harness Part 1021857 from RepairClinic.com I was just going to buy that part and replace it.

Does it sound like I have it right?

Thanks,

Rube

Hi,

Ohm your defrost thermostat for continuity while its still frosty to get a proper reading, should read 0-1 ohm. If the defrost thermostat is not frosty when you ohm it, you will get a high reading.

Here's the one for your model:
Manufacturer part number 61006198 is RepairClinic item number 1021857


Put your ohm meter probes in the 2 white wire plastic connections, remember it has to be still frosty for a proper reading. Should read 0 ohms.

Then put your ohm meter probes in the black and middle white wire plastic connections, that will ohm your defrost heater, should read between 11-50 ohms.

Unplug your refrigerator first!

Let us know what you find.

I don't know about the new ADC with the LED light on it, thats new to me as well.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

Shop Home Appliances