Hi,

Yes, that would be good to do, since these boards have been causing most of the frosted evaporator coil problems.

But i would always ohm out the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity to make sure those are good as well.


Jake

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Jake,

I replaced the board defrosted the coils and the fridge is cool, not cold though. With the setting all the way at 9, it only cools down to about 45-50 degrees which to me seems a little warm based on the setting. I looked at everything again yesterday, there was no frost on the coils, air flow in the freezer seemed to be fine, but I really coouldn't feel much airflow in the fridge. Any other suggestions on what to look for?

Check the air coming into the refrigerator section with the air diffuser off.
Close the freezer door while checking the air flow, should be alot, then open the freezer door and check the air flow in the refrigertor, it should not increase the air flow, if you notice a increase in air flow with the freezer door open, then you still have a ice/frost clog in the evaporator.

Whats the temperature of the freezer side? Should be 0-10 degrees.

This link will help you too:
http://www.applianceaid.com/frig_notcold.html

Jake

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Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Jake,

I did what you suggested tand found that when the freezer door was opened there was a noticable change (increase) in the airflow to the fridge side. You stated that this is a sign if ice build-up on the coils. I have replaced the board so it must be something else. Any more suggestions?

Get a flashlight and check behind the evaporator coils for a sheet of ice or frost thats clogging the air flow. After i defrost the evaporator coils on the ones i do, i always see that subborn ice/frost behind the coils, get a heat gun or hair dryer and make sure its all clear.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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Where does the spring go/connect to on the air damper for the side by side maytag. I am struggling with this last problem after fixing my cooling issue and can't see any place to hook it between. Your help is appreciated!

The only pic I have.....

jeff.

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Boy am I glad I found this site. Have a Jenn-Air model JSD2789DES, obviously made by Maytag. Stopped making Ice the other day, pulled the unit out and the back side plus the floor were covered in water. Pulled the ice maker and found the water tube that fills it was frozen solid. Hmmm.. how to unfreeze that and yet not defrost my entire freezer?? Hung a worklight with a 150watt spot in it from the cabinet facing the back of the fridge right at the point where the water supply line enters the back. Had it unfrozen in about an hour.

Now, notice the fridge side is getting warmer. Pull everything out, clean the entire side, pull the top cover, notice no air flow at all, get into the freezer, and AHA! As you're all speaking of find the coils frozen solid. Spent a couple hours with a hair dryer getting them unsprung. Now, my fear is that this is not a one-time event, as my refrigerator is right at 5 years old.

I've seen lots of responses here from Jake and all suggesting "ohm out" the defrost heater and thermostat, and using my 26 years in telecom always carrying an ohmmeter I gotta ask a question - what exactly am I looking for when I do that??? Just continuity? I'm assuming from seeing the pictures that the defrost heater is simply that, a metal heating element, and it's got a thermostat I believe attached to the head that connects up top by the fan unit??? Then way back at the beginning of this thread, someone mentioned test points on the board - what test points? I don't want to short anything out and blow something, and shouldn't that be done off power???

Thanks in advance, great blog here, informative as heck!!!!

Well, found Jake's link to test the board, and boy what a pain to get to. You have to take out the top cover on the fridge side, then something like 7 screws, hope you don't mess up the flappidoodle thingymajig, take the whole top down, lights and all, to get to the tiny spot in the back where the board is located.

Well, didn't even get that far, had the board freed up from where it was screwed in place, and while holding it, without getting it all the way out, it starts making a buzzing sound like a nest of hornets.

I'd say I'm pretty sure it's FUBAR. Jake - your opinion? Should I go through the hassle of taking it down to test it??? I'm fairly confident it's buggered.

I found this document stuffed up there next to the board - click on link to enlarge pictures, then when displayed you can click on the pictures to zoom in:
http://bellsouthpwp.net/r/r/rrhuggin...%20wiring1.jpg


http://bellsouthpwp.net/r/r/rrhuggin...%20wiring2.jpg


If anyone's interested, I'm going to do a photo play-by-play of the replacement and post it on my site, will post a link here to it. Might come in handy for the next guy/girl that wants to replace theirs as getting to the board in my Jenn-Air was a real pain. Think I'll document all the way into the freezer side along with the location of the coils and heater/defroster. Might be of use to someone someday... lol ...

Hey Jake, I looked for the part number on the site you have listed for my Jenn Air and it lists this same board. However, mine's not in a self-contained unit. I had to pull the entire top piece down and the board sits in generally the same location you've been speaking of, but covered by the plastic that is all one piece for the entire top assembly. Any suggestions on part number?