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November 12th, 2011, 10:12 AM
#1
Jenn-Air - sounds like the same old prblem
Brand:
Jenn-Air
Age:
More than 10 years
Our freezer is fine and our fridge is too warm. We're preparing to try a regular old defrost to see if the air passages between are clogged with ice. There's not much coming out of the fridge side vents, but shutting the freezer door does push some air through. But it seems from reading this board that I should try cleaning the defrost drain first. So the question is: where is it?
Thanks for any help.
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November 12th, 2011, 10:25 AM
#2
No, if the defrost drain line was clogged you would notice ice on the bottom of your freezer floor.
Do you hear your fan inside the freezer blowing cold air?
Take some food out of your freezer and look/feel the back panel inside the freezer for frost build up on it first and report back.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
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November 12th, 2011, 10:30 AM
#3
No ice right now, but I have seen it. Yes on the fan, yes to frost.
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November 12th, 2011, 10:32 AM
#4
Also, there is often a bit of water on the floor below the freezer door, like right now.
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November 13th, 2011, 07:44 PM
#5
Sorry for the delay.
Yes then Your defrost drain hole/line is clogged.
It will likely be a solid block of ice, you'll need to defrost that ice with a hair dryer and hot water.
Once all the ice is out, try to run hot water down the defrost drain hole, also run something down the defrost drain hole, like a little rotor router snake.
I use a evaporator cooler spider snake:
http://www.azpartsmaster.com/Products/Cooler-Spider-Snake__CLR4690.aspx
They are used basically in Arizona to clean out the water pump tubes that run to the cooler pads.
I don't know if they would sell them in your area, but if you go to your local hardware store, they should have something similar to run down your drain to clean it completely out.
Its LOCATED directly underneath your evaporator coils in the freezer, its #14 here, remove the food from the lower part of your freezer then remove the shelves then take off the back panel#20 to access it:

Let us know how it goes.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
ApplianceBlog Classifieds
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November 13th, 2011, 07:46 PM
#6
For the frost issue:
Lets first check your defrost thermostat and heater.
Remove the back panel from inside the freezer(which you already did), its #20 and see if the evaporator coils #8 are massively frosted up.

If so Ohm your defrost thermostat for continuity while its still frosty to get a proper reading, should read 0-1 ohm. If the defrost thermostat is not frosty when you ohm it, you will get a high reading.
Here's the defrost thermostat heater assembly for your model:
Manufacturer part number 61006199 is RepairClinic item number 1025806

Put your ohm meter probes in the 2 white wire plastic connections, remember it has to be still frosty for a proper reading. Should read 0 ohms.
Then put your ohm meter probes in the black and middle white wire plastic connections, that will ohm your defrost heater, should read between 11-50 ohms.
Unplug your refrigerator first!
If the defrost thermostat ohms at 0-1 while its frosty, and the defrost heater is between 11-50 ohms then order the adaptive defrost control board.
Here's the adaptive defrost control board for your model you can order here:
Manufacturer part number 61005988 is RepairClinic item number 948430

Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
ApplianceBlog Classifieds
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November 13th, 2011, 07:58 PM
#7
Thanks. I read a bit more in this forum while awaiting your reply and so I've already done everything you suggested for the defrost drain line and its all working again. FYI - I'm a bass player, and I used a bass guitar E string to snake it - I had an old one handy and it worked fine.
I'll have to buy a new Ohmmeter/continuity tester to go after problem #2.
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November 13th, 2011, 08:00 PM
#8
BTW, yes the coils were very massively frosted up. It was quite a sight.
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November 14th, 2011, 12:43 AM
#9
Ok, sounds good, yes let me know when you get the multimeter to do the continuity check for problem #2.
Jake
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present
Look-Up & Order Parts
ApplianceBlog Classifieds
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November 15th, 2011, 04:55 PM
#10
It'll take a little while to pull that together, but I want to say in the meantime how appreciative I am for what I learned here. Our fridge is quiet and cold again!
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