Thread: Maytag Top Freezer: freezer working, refrigerator not. Took apart and defrosted. Now?

Originally Posted by kdkrone

.I don't have equipment to do the testing of ohms here and there--

Replace #12, #9, ......
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...and #15. Make sure all the ice is defrosted and you're good to go.
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OK, I saw the clipon thermostat behind the back panel in the freezer--it is above the coil and clips onto a copper pipe. And i saw the defrost timer, which is in a shroud on the top of the refrigerator compartment. I am not sure where the heating unit is--I assume it is related to the exchange coil behind the freezer?

So my neighbor says he can help me with the electrical testing. Are there specific instructions for testing each of these components. Also, 1, about how long will it take for the coil to ice up again? Day or two? Week? In other words, how long will it take before I know I am in the clear? And also, what are rhe numbers for the parts--12, 9, 15? Is there a schematic for my refrigerator posted somewhere?


I assume you have provided these parts as they are the most likely to have caused the problem?

Thanks for responding,
Ken K

Originally Posted by kdkrone

I am not sure where the heating unit is--

Under the evaporator

Originally Posted by kdkrone

what are rhe numbers for the parts--12, 9, 15?

I already gave them to you along with a link in case you wanted to purchase them.

Originally Posted by kdkrone

I assume you have provided these parts as they are the most likely to have caused the problem?

They're the only parts that can cause the problem.

Originally Posted by kdkrone

I don't have equipment to do the testing of ohms here and there--my thought is either to just replace the defrost timer/adaptive defrost device and see if that does it

This statement from your original post gave me the impression you didn't want to do any testing, you just wanted it fixed. There are only three components that make up the defrost system. If you replace all three, problem fixed.

Originally Posted by kdkrone

So my neighbor says he can help me with the electrical testing. Are there specific instructions for testing each of these components

If you would like to know which component has failed then follow my instructions EXACTLY. The refrigerator needs to be plugged in and running. The temperature in the freezer compartment needs to be below 32*F. Remove the evaporator cover (freezer section back wall). Use a flat blade screw driver and stick it in the hole below the defrost timer. Slowly advance the defrost timer one click at a time until the refrigerator turns off. It's now in defrost mode. Look under the evaporator and see if the defrost heater has turned on. If it turns on no further testing is necessary. Replace the defrost timer. If the heater does not turn on, unplug the machine. Set your meter to read ohms and check the defrost heater and defrost thermostat for continuity. Both should read closed. The defrost thermostat needs to be below 40*F to read closed. Replace the one that reads open or no continuity. If both parts have continuity, replace the defrost timer.

Thank you so much for your responses. Happy to send a donation for your help. It is clear to me that the easiest way for me to keep from having to go back into the freezer again is to replace all three of these relatively inexpensive parts.

Quick questions:

1. Are talking days or weeks for the frost to build up to the point that the problem will happen again? I am happy to order the parts from the company in Michigan that you have suggested, but it will probably take a week or so to get here (the heater, in fact, is out of stock and will not ship until 7/5 to 7/12), so I am wondering if I need to source the parts closer to home, in California.

2. Do you have part numbers for #1 and #22 in the freezer diagram that you were kind enough to post? When I removed #1, a couple of the molded plastic clips broke off. The top clips are intact, as is one side clip, so there is a couple of inch 1/16 gap on one side, allowing a small amount of air to leak back into the freezer on its way to the refrigerator. In my compulsiveness I am thinking about replacing the part, but is it likely to really affect anything?

Thanks
Ken K

BTW the reason I had asked about the #s 12, 9, 15 was that the schematics did not load when I looked at your posts, so I had no reference point for them.

One additional point about the heater: when I was in there last night, I don't recall seeing a linear heating element below the evaporator. Is it mounted along the bottom of the fins? If so, does the evaporator swing out or safely pivot out to reach it? I would hate to break any of the copper tubing!!

Thanks
KK

Two clips hold it to the evaporator. The two parts you asked about have been permanently discontinued by the manufacturer. The time it takes to build up with enough frost to affect the cooling varies from model to model.

All fixed. Things I learned: Maytag MTB2656 GEW (not GEN as I posted above)

1. The repair process was not lengthy. I had to wait for 10 days for the parts, as the heater had to be ordered from the factory. The thermostat and timer are readily available.
2. The problem was the timer motor. While I could have followed the instructions above to figure out which part was the culprit, I had decided that I would replace them all anyway. After I had replaced the parts, I found continuity in the heater and the thermostat. I found a youtube video about testing the timer. The defrost circuits, contacts 1-2 and 1-4 were fine, but 1-3, tested at all levels of resistance from a range of 200 to 200K, showed no continuity. (To test the thermostat it was necessary to put it in the freezer. Water with ice was not cold enough to close the contacts for continuity testing).
3. After waiting for 10 days (I received the parts today and replaced them today in 45 minutes including unpacking and repacking the fridge and freezer), the bottom 1/3 of the evaporator was covered in ice up to perhaps 1/4 inch in thickness, but the top had not yet frozen. There was only a small amount of frost on the back of the freezer compartment to alert us to the continuing problem. The freezer had remained at -10 degrees and the fridge at 36 degrees during that time, so there was no further loss of food during the wait period.
4. Equipment needed: 1/4 inch socket with a screwdriver handle, small flathead screwdriver for gently prying back three plastic retention clips that hold the defrost timer, assistant with flashlight, hair dryer.
5. There is no need to remove the air tunnel secured to the back wall of the freezer compartment, as I had initially done and had broken off two plastic clips. There is enough play to allow the back wall to be leaned forward once the four securing screws are removed to allow it to then be lifted out. There are 2 wires that need to be detached from the light socket (small spade-type connectors) and one 6 wire harness clip.
6. The heater is not exactly suspended on the bottom, but rather from the back and bottom corner, but with a little light and feel, one can figure out how the s-shaped clips clip around the rubber ends of the heater coil, then wrap over one of the tubes of the evaporator. At first, I was concerned about the arrangement because it places the heater closer to the back wall of the compartment, but then I realized there is a metal reflector plate that serves both the protect the very back wall from direct heat as well as deflect heat back into the evaporator coils. It is a little tricky because of the sharp fins, but I did it with only minor wounds and no loss of digits.

Parts for reference
http://click.linksynergy.com/fs-bin/...l_id%253D48725

Again, Rick, thanks. The help was much appreciated.

Model: Maytag MTB2656GEW (not N, as posted above)

Anytime my friend! Good job on the repair!