I think I know what your answer will be from reading other posts here, but just to be sure of the diagnosis I'll post also. This site has been very helpful already as I have found the schematics, the defrost board, and compressor relay/overload.

This side by side refrigerator is just over two years old. About a week ago it started the clicking noise (trying to run) that others here have also described. It eventually quit cooling all together. I tried unplugging and shutting off numerous times with the same operational results - no cooling just clicking. After 3 days of being dead and the night before (last night)my service appointment I turned it on again (freezer control slide switch). To my surprise it started cooling again and is working fine at this point. I canceled the service since it's working, but I know it will fail again within a few days and I want to be ready to check it out.

Thanks in advance for your help,
Al

Did you notice where the clicking sound was coming from? Inside the refrigerator section in the console controls or behind the refrigerator where the compressor is?

Jake

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It came from the rear of the unit near the compressor.

Ok, they make 2 different RELAY/OVERLOAD ASSY's for that model, Whats the Serial#? that the way I can tell which one you will need.

Jake

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Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
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The unit serial number is 24587005EC. Thanks

Thanks,

Here's the relay/overload for your model:

P/N: 61006186 RELAY/OVERLOAD ASSY.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Thanks for the help Jake!! I really appreciate what you do for do-it-yourselfers like myself. Just FYI, the refrigerator ran fine for the last two days then this evening it went back into the clicking and not cooling mode. I slid the freezer on/off switch to the "off" position for about 10 minutes and then back to "on" and the unit started working again.

Thanks,
Al

It sure sounds like that relay/overload is possibly bad, if you hear it clicking from down by the compressor.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

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Hey Jake,

Well I installed the new Relay/Overload part (61006186) but unfortunately the refrigerator still won't cool (at least the part was inexpensive). I suspect that the compressor must be bad... After the relay clicks it sounds like the compressor trys to run (it is pretty loud) but after a minute or so it kicks out. The system trys to start every two minutes or so since it is trying to cool down (if it were an AC unit I would say the start capacitor is bad). Is there any way that the defrost board circuitry could cause a problem like this? Does the defrost cycle disable the compressor cooling cycle or affect it all?

Since the unit is still under warranty I guess it's time to call the Maytag people which I hate to do since they will rip me off, even under warranty.

Thanks for the help,
Al

Yea, sounds like your compressor is bad.

Why would Maytag try to rip you off under warranty?

It clearly states in your owners manual that any sealed system repair, including the compressor is covered 100% parts and labor.

They may just charge you a trip charge, but that should be it.

Jake

__________________
Appliance Repair School 1987-1988
Star Appliance Tech. 2 yrs. 1988-1990
Wards Appliance Tech. 11 yrs. 1990-2001
Sears Appliance Tech. 4 yrs. 2001-Oct. 2005
Jake's Appliance Repair Nov. 2005-present

If you need more repair advice help on your appliance, click Here

Look-Up & Order Parts

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